_DC_ 218 Posted January 22, 2014 I want to start by saying that this is without exception my favourite watch of all time, so you'll forgive any over enthusiasm that may follow on my part, but I was extremely excited when this rep was released as there was only a few really poor quality reps of it which I just couldn't live with. I've already got another dial colour variation on order! The Gen The 5980 Nautilus Chronograph launched in 2006 as part of the 30th anniversary relaunch of the Nautilus range. The challenge was to integrate the chronograph function into the already much loved Nautilus' design without alienating their existing clientele or completely ruining the look of the watch. So traditional circular chrono pushers were out, as was the tripple sub dial configuration we've come to be familiar with from other brands such as AP and Rolex. What the Patek boys came up with instead was in my eyes perfection. A single sub dial at the 6 o'clock position indicating both elapsed minutes and elapsed hours using stacked hands, making for a far tidier dial. As for the pushers they are sleek lozenge shaped appendages at 2 and 4 o'clock which appear to grow almost organically from the shoulders of the case. In addition to this the case size is only 0.5mm larger than the standard Nautilus, so it will feel familiar to the wrist of any die hard Nautilus fan, though it is somewhat bulkier with thicker case and bezel, largely due to the extra space needed for the chronograph movement. Speaking of which... The 5980 was the first time Patek had used their own in-house automatic chronograph movement (hear that AP, an in-house chronograph movement, take note) and what a beauty it is. A vertical clutch system takes care of the fly-back chrono seconds hand, meaning virtually frictionless motion with no skipping or jumping! Since it's launch the 5980 has become a modern classic, and a number of variations followed: Stainless Steel Black Dial reference 5980/1A-015 (This is the version I currently own in rep form) Rose Gold Brown Dial on Leather Strap reference 5980R/001 (There is a rep of this but on rose gold bracelet which doesn't exist as a gen with this dial configuration, when they put it on a leather strap I'll be ordering it) Stainless Steel White Dial reference 5980/1A-019 (This is repped) Two Tone Blue Dial reference 5980/1AR-001 (The jury is still out on this one for me, it is repped but with incorrect dial configuration) And finally Full Rose Gold Black Dial reference 5980/1R-001 (technically repped but with incorrect dial configuration) So, that's the gen, how does the rep compare? The Rep I've already mentioned which versions are repped so won't list these again, but as my rep is a 5980/1A-015 I'll focus on that one as it's also one of the "true to gen" configurations. The Dial The colour is close and goes from a dark grey to deep black towards the outer edges, though the gen seems to have a more obvious colour transition where the rep is subtle and only noticeable in certain light. That's a fairly minor flaw though. The indices seem more prominent on the rep which gives the impression that the dial is smaller but again this is fairly minor and I've noticed that on the blue dial version this isn't as noticeable. Aside from that the print is crisp on the Branding and chrono sub dial. The date window is also correctly positioned and white on black as apposed to black on white print which is correct to gen too. The date sits a little high in the window on mine but I hadn't noticed this until I took these macro shots... The Case This is where the rep is really on point. The dimensions are perfect with the exception of a deeper case back so the watch sits a little higher on the wrist than the gen, but from the business side of the watch everything is as it should be. The finishing is top notch with beautiful mirror polished edges and brushed surfaces. Bracelet This is another high point of the rep, as some of the other non SW200 Nautilus reps have real sub standard bracelets, but this one is if anything better than the SW200 version. Tight and with nicely flat polished mid links (I've always felt these were too convex on the SW200 rep). In addition the clasp lock is nice and deeply engraved with the Calatrava logo, again better than the SW200 Movement Ok, so no rep movement is ever going to come close to the real thing, but props to the rep makers for doing a pretty good job considering! The rotor, as with all rep attempts at gen movements, makes this movement, and again I feel this is better than the SW200 or at least the one I own, with a proper engraved logo rather than stick on one! I'll let you judge for yourselves but you can never expect too much so this level of quality is a nice surprise. Now I know what you're thinking, and yes it is a faux chrono as the sub dial doesn't actually do anything, but we've been putting up with Rolex Daytonas that have this problem for years and no one seems to mind, and I never actually use the chronograph function anyway so I'm not that fussed, but make your own minds up about that! Verdict Considering how much cheaper than the SW200 standard Nautilus this is at circa $350 it really is a whole lot of rep, with a number of it's elements outdoing the aforementioned in terms of quality. A great overall feel and build quality, it's a solid feeling rep, no rattles or large gaps between links or case parts and the movement is smooth and attractive as viewed through the case back. Anyone who likes Patek sports watches needs to own one of these, you really can't afford not to! I'll leave you with an obligatory wristie as well as a few more shots of it with my SW200 for size comparison Hope you've enjoyed and I haven't bored you too much, and if I have then it's your own fault for reading this far!! Can't wait for my blue dial version to be delivered, think it'll be after CNY now though! DC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pipaulsen 0 Posted January 22, 2014 Wow, great review with even better pictures, well done ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
machiavegli 7 Posted January 22, 2014 TO EVERYBODY: More reviews like this one! TO DC: Great job, buddy! Photos & text flawless, keep up the good work please! -Mach Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arj 1 Posted January 22, 2014 Have been looking forward to this. Great review. Bravo! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FuzzyCoyote 2 Posted January 22, 2014 DC, can you do reviews like this for all of your watches? Haha. No seriously though, that was a brilliant read. Thanks for sharing. I will be investing in a Patek at some point this year and this will be in with a shout for sure. I think I am with you on the Rose Gold Brown Dial on Leather Strap one though, if there is a rep made with the leather strap then I will be all over it like a bad rash! Agree with your point about the Chrono too, sometimes I'm just not going to care if it works or not, as long as it looks the part. Who really needs to use a Patek as a stopwatch anyway: Great read and thanks again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sardonix 1 Posted January 22, 2014 Great review and pictures very nice to read, thanks for all the work. And i must skip the Patek topics bad for my wallet Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gigahertz15 0 Posted January 22, 2014 Excellent review. Does it wear true to its size? Smaller, bigger? I think it is 41-42mm if I'm not mistaken... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kleen™ 45 Posted January 22, 2014 Excellent write-up, DC! I can't wait to hear which colour you prefer on the 5980 dial - assuming the incoming is also from maker....ehm....who, exactly?! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_DC_ 218 Posted January 22, 2014 Excellent review.Does it wear true to its size? Smaller, bigger? I think it is 41-42mm if I'm not mistaken... It's 40.5mm and it wears very similar to the standard Nautilus, small enough to be classy but big enough to be sporty! DC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_DC_ 218 Posted January 22, 2014 Excellent write-up, DC! I can't wait to hear which colour you prefer on the 5980 dial - assuming the incoming is also from maker....ehm....who, exactly?! Bought both from Andrew so assume from same maker, though I don't subscribe to the whole "Noob maker" and "Z factory" stuff, I honestly imagine they're all just made in a large shed in someone's yard, lol! DC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_DC_ 218 Posted January 23, 2014 Great review and pictures very nice to read, thanks for all the work. And i must skip the Patek topics bad for my wallet Lol, tell me about it, I just know they're gonna release the Rose Gold version on a leather strap and I'll have to buy a third one!!! DC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pseudonym 0 Posted January 23, 2014 Excellent review Dave. If you ever wish to relinquish this one I'll snap it up as quick as I did the last (before I get round to getting one from a TD myself) I believe the version I have is the 21J movement. I completely agree that the 5980, And the 5726 I now own are real quality reps. Thanks again. Rob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FuzzyCoyote 2 Posted January 23, 2014 I can't stop looking at the this one. Must have red this at least three or four times through. Such a gorgeous watch: and knowing Andrew has sent it to you is great news as I have places orders with him before. Great guy to deal with. Like I said, if that brown one with the leather strap is sorted I will be placing an order for sure.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLArch 0 Posted January 30, 2014 super review, mate. if only i could pull off wearing such an amazing watch. GREAT REVIEW. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
repsenthusiastic 0 Posted February 2, 2014 Great post! Deeply appreciate and Thanks for the effort... Do u, by any chance know how much does a gen cost? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
machiavegli 7 Posted February 2, 2014 DC just so you know I ordered one M2M after reading this -Mach Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLArch 0 Posted February 2, 2014 Great post! Deeply appreciate and Thanks for the effort... Do u, by any chance know how much does a gen cost? Gens seen retail pricing new at plus minus 50 K Preowned around 38-40 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_DC_ 218 Posted February 2, 2014 DC just so you know I ordered one M2M after reading this -Mach Glad I inspired you, how you enjoying it Mach? DC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLArch 0 Posted February 18, 2014 I noticed in gen v. rep comparisons that the rep "name" is very close to the 11 and 1 markers, where as the "name" on the gen sits lower and more space between. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Realism 72 Posted February 18, 2014 Great post! Deeply appreciate and Thanks for the effort... Do u, by any chance know how much does a gen cost? Gens seen retail pricing new at plus minus 50 K Preowned around 38-40 you must have a bad dealer... ive seen this go 32-35k brand new Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alecs61 0 Posted February 25, 2014 I want to start by saying that this is without exception my favourite watch of all time, so you'll forgive any over enthusiasm that may follow on my part, but I was extremely excited when this rep was released as there was only a few really poor quality reps of it which I just couldn't live with. I've already got another dial colour variation on order! The Gen The 5980 Nautilus Chronograph launched in 2006 as part of the 30th anniversary relaunch of the Nautilus range. The challenge was to integrate the chronograph function into the already much loved Nautilus' design without alienating their existing clientele or completely ruining the look of the watch. So traditional circular chrono pushers were out, as was the tripple sub dial configuration we've come to be familiar with from other brands such as AP and Rolex. What the Patek boys came up with instead was in my eyes perfection. A single sub dial at the 6 o'clock position indicating both elapsed minutes and elapsed hours using stacked hands, making for a far tidier dial. As for the pushers they are sleek lozenge shaped appendages at 2 and 4 o'clock which appear to grow almost organically from the shoulders of the case. In addition to this the case size is only 0.5mm larger than the standard Nautilus, so it will feel familiar to the wrist of any die hard Nautilus fan, though it is somewhat bulkier with thicker case and bezel, largely due to the extra space needed for the chronograph movement. Speaking of which... The 5980 was the first time Patek had used their own in-house automatic chronograph movement (hear that AP, an in-house chronograph movement, take note) and what a beauty it is. A vertical clutch system takes care of the fly-back chrono seconds hand, meaning virtually frictionless motion with no skipping or jumping! Since it's launch the 5980 has become a modern classic, and a number of variations followed: Stainless Steel Black Dial reference 5980/1A-015 (This is the version I currently own in rep form) Rose Gold Brown Dial on Leather Strap reference 5980R/001 (There is a rep of this but on rose gold bracelet which doesn't exist as a gen with this dial configuration, when they put it on a leather strap I'll be ordering it) Stainless Steel White Dial reference 5980/1A-019 (This is repped) Two Tone Blue Dial reference 5980/1AR-001 (The jury is still out on this one for me, it is repped but with incorrect dial configuration) And finally Full Rose Gold Black Dial reference 5980/1R-001 (technically repped but with incorrect dial configuration) So, that's the gen, how does the rep compare? The Rep I've already mentioned which versions are repped so won't list these again, but as my rep is a 5980/1A-015 I'll focus on that one as it's also one of the "true to gen" configurations. The Dial The colour is close and goes from a dark grey to deep black towards the outer edges, though the gen seems to have a more obvious colour transition where the rep is subtle and only noticeable in certain light. That's a fairly minor flaw though. The indices seem more prominent on the rep which gives the impression that the dial is smaller but again this is fairly minor and I've noticed that on the blue dial version this isn't as noticeable. Aside from that the print is crisp on the Branding and chrono sub dial. The date window is also correctly positioned and white on black as apposed to black on white print which is correct to gen too. The date sits a little high in the window on mine but I hadn't noticed this until I took these macro shots... The Case This is where the rep is really on point. The dimensions are perfect with the exception of a deeper case back so the watch sits a little higher on the wrist than the gen, but from the business side of the watch everything is as it should be. The finishing is top notch with beautiful mirror polished edges and brushed surfaces. Bracelet This is another high point of the rep, as some of the other non SW200 Nautilus reps have real sub standard bracelets, but this one is if anything better than the SW200 version. Tight and with nicely flat polished mid links (I've always felt these were too convex on the SW200 rep). In addition the clasp lock is nice and deeply engraved with the Calatrava logo, again better than the SW200 Movement Ok, so no rep movement is ever going to come close to the real thing, but props to the rep makers for doing a pretty good job considering! The rotor, as with all rep attempts at gen movements, makes this movement, and again I feel this is better than the SW200 or at least the one I own, with a proper engraved logo rather than stick on one! I'll let you judge for yourselves but you can never expect too much so this level of quality is a nice surprise. Now I know what you're thinking, and yes it is a faux chrono as the sub dial doesn't actually do anything, but we've been putting up with Rolex Daytonas that have this problem for years and no one seems to mind, and I never actually use the chronograph function anyway so I'm not that fussed, but make your own minds up about that! Verdict Considering how much cheaper than the SW200 standard Nautilus this is at circa $350 it really is a whole lot of rep, with a number of it's elements outdoing the aforementioned in terms of quality. A great overall feel and build quality, it's a solid feeling rep, no rattles or large gaps between links or case parts and the movement is smooth and attractive as viewed through the case back. Anyone who likes Patek sports watches needs to own one of these, you really can't afford not to! I'll leave you with an obligatory wristie as well as a few more shots of it with my SW200 for size comparison Hope you've enjoyed and I haven't bored you too much, and if I have then it's your own fault for reading this far!! Can't wait for my blue dial version to be delivered, think it'll be after CNY now though! DC Very nice review Ale Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_DC_ 218 Posted February 25, 2014 Lol, thanks, not sure quoting the whole thing was necessary but I appreciate the sentiment!! DC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nygiants 0 Posted February 26, 2014 DC, Two questions: 1. What size is your wrist? 2. Maybe I'm missing something but, why is the case so much thicker than the reg nautulus and gen if the chrono doesn't do anything? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_DC_ 218 Posted February 26, 2014 DC, Two questions: 1. What size is your wrist? 2. Maybe I'm missing something but, why is the case so much thicker than the reg nautulus and gen if the chrono doesn't do anything? Hi NY My wrist is 6.5 inches so pretty small! The gen case is thick too, maybe not quite as thick as the rep but a lot thicker than the standard Nautilus, see: Gen 5980 chronograph: Gen 5711 standard: So the rep is partly thick because it's meant to be, but also the chrono does work, at least the seconds do, start stop and reset using the pushers, it's just the minute and hour subdial that doesn't. The watch has a 7750 chronograph movement in it which is obviously quite a thick movement!! Hope this helps!! DC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daywatch 5 Posted February 26, 2014 Great review, thanks for the great pics and the side-pic. Too thick for me as a Patek. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
