Panerista 0 Posted March 1, 2014 Hi, Dropped my JLC today and the seconds hand got loose. I have worked with reps before, but I have no clue how to remove THIS movement from the case, so I can re-attach the seconds hand. Can somebody help me? If I need to make a better picture, let me know! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frankt8242 1 Posted March 1, 2014 Looks like an ST-25 Seagull config...And a very snug fit...There should be some tabs somewhere...Good luck... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J!m 289 Posted March 1, 2014 Did you already remove the clamps? I see where there should be a clamp; it does not have a clamp in it... But it looks like it will come out the back like normal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panerista 0 Posted March 1, 2014 So it seems ... One can accsess the dial from front, if I would know how to remove the glass Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panerista 0 Posted March 1, 2014 Got it, problem solved! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aren 27 Posted March 1, 2014 By problem solved, do you mean you got the watch open or you repaired the problem with the hands? When you say the hand is loose, is it off? The hands sit on a little shaft and usually if I see hands are loose or off, it is the shaft that is bent or broken. The shafts are a bit fragile, at least in the watches I examine. When you open the watch, I suggest you open it in a box with some white paper towels in the bottom. That way, if anything pops off, you will easily be able to find it on the white paper and things won't bounce or roll away. Good luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panerista 0 Posted March 1, 2014 By problem solved, do you mean you got the watch open or you repaired the problem with the hands? When you say the hand is loose, is it off? The hands sit on a little shaft and usually if I see hands are loose or off, it is the shaft that is bent or broken. The shafts are a bit fragile, at least in the watches I examine. When you open the watch, I suggest you open it in a box with some white paper towels in the bottom. That way, if anything pops off, you will easily be able to find it on the white paper and things won't bounce or roll away. Good luck Got the watch open and got it repaired! Micky aka Ssteel pointed me to the right direction. This particular watch must be opened from the front. The hand was off, but the shaft was luckily ok. But thanx alot for the tips, will use them in the future I opened the front bezel carefully the same way you open a bezel of omega/rolex. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aren 27 Posted March 2, 2014 By problem solved, do you mean you got the watch open or you repaired the problem with the hands? When you say the hand is loose, is it off? The hands sit on a little shaft and usually if I see hands are loose or off, it is the shaft that is bent or broken. The shafts are a bit fragile, at least in the watches I examine. When you open the watch, I suggest you open it in a box with some white paper towels in the bottom. That way, if anything pops off, you will easily be able to find it on the white paper and things won't bounce or roll away. Good luck Got the watch open and got it repaired! Micky aka Ssteel pointed me to the right direction. This particular watch must be opened from the front. The hand was off, but the shaft was luckily ok. But thanx alot for the tips, will use them in the future I opened the front bezel carefully the same way you open a bezel of omega/rolex. Great job! I always use a shallow box. I am not clumsy but it seems like things can jump out or drop and go missing. I have felt like pulling my hair out more than once because of tiny parts. Mere spring bars can be dangerous little flying projectiles which can be hard to find. Glad the shaft was ok. In some watches, that little shaft/stem is fragile. You were fortunate. Well done. Micky is a great guy and always helpful to everyone. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
onionbag 1 Posted March 2, 2014 I always use a shallow box. I read this and gulped as it reminded that I was working on a pal's wife's watch today and had to remove a 5mm long pin from the bracelet.....as I was tapping it out - holding the bracelet in a small vice - "I thought what if it falls on the floor".........phew!! As it gave it stuck in the hole.......and didnae land on my kitchen floor. I'll use your technique from now on Aren. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aren 27 Posted March 2, 2014 I always use a shallow box. I read this and gulped as it reminded that I was working on a pal's wife's watch today and had to remove a 5mm long pin from the bracelet.....as I was tapping it out - holding the bracelet in a small vice - "I thought what if it falls on the floor".........phew!! As it gave it stuck in the hole.......and didnae land on my kitchen floor. I'll use your technique from now on Aren. Onion, if you don't have a box, do it in a large plastic bag, clear if possible if you are only changing pins or spring bars. Plastic works in a pinch if you aren't at home and don't have a box. The box works great for me and I don't lose my pins or parts anymore. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J!m 289 Posted March 16, 2014 I always put down two pieces of white paper (taped together) so it is absolutely clean, and very bright. It does not *contain* anything that goes flying, and I have spent several hours 'hunting' for parts, but overall this seems best for me. I can jot notes on it for parts to order etc. as well, and once I'm done I scrap it, so any lube, dirt dust or notes I don't need are erased, and I start fresh and clean next time. The shallow box is a good idea (shoe box lid for example) but if something is flying, it will probably clear the lid and find the nearest shag carpet or really heavy furniture item to rest in/under... My experience anyway... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites