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Alhig72

5512 project

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Alhig72

So finally my dial arrived so I can complete my 5512.

It started out as a cartel 5512,

Then I aged the case a bit and shaped the cg's as much as my skills allowed and drilled the lugs.

Next was an athaya 700 crown.

Next it got an HR 5513 dial,

Then that was changed to a gilt decal dial.

 

I finally bit the bullet and got a Vietnam gilt tropical 5512 dial which arrived today..

I will fit it tomorrow.

 

 

7749ab764bec6a9bc4cb27bfb6b93a86.jpg95159a63d46f801210a112397caeba92.jpgec0fbcd37bf2efa9891b35bda7de5390.jpg9aeb33c97981b652500df00ca9f03d29.jpg6915ffb85daf4516923efb65e330f456.jpg97add70d287b9374c3b54709772ecd83.jpg2d6c08a42fb7ab72fd01843e71b17c7f.jpg6116b0142786a95d13d8718bbb645971.jpg

 

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RichardTompson

What size drill end did you use to drill the lugs got spare couple cases going to give it a shot


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Alhig72

Sorry for the late reply,
1.3 mm.
I start with 1mm, then 1.2 and finally 1.3mm

What size drill end did you use to drill the lugs got spare couple cases going to give it a shot


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V1ntage

If this post is still live, can you shed some light on how you drilled the lugs. Attempting first build of a vintage rolex 36mm and will need to drill lugs on case I've ordered. I read  a post where the method was to use a dremel in a work station. Any advice much appreciated...I'm a total noob.

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Mossback

I'm not involved with this build nor am I a watch maker. However I have some experience in machining.

I would suggest placing the blank (empty) case gently in a small vise attached to a quality drill press. See to it the lugs are located correctly horizontally so that when you drill down into them the through hole will be coaxial to the lower lug.

 

To drill first buy a small Number 2 center drill also known as a spot drill. A number 2 is 1/16 dia not sure if thats the appropriate diameter. For the drill buy a carbide three flute drill known as a dreamer or something like a dreamer (Google for a match).

Using the spot drill at a high RPM (>6000 is good) slowly carefully drill into the lug. Be very careful the very first part as you will be drilling into a compound angle surface. The best technique it to snugly touch the case lift and touch it again a bit deeper. Called pecking. Once you have a complete diameter your done with the spot drill. Load the carbide drill and slowly feed into the case once more pecking at it maybe a 32nd at a time. Get as much RPM as you can, more is better. Take care as the drill breaks through the bottom as one flute may grab while another feeds through breaking the drill.  As I see the case the bottom lug will have a horizontal surface so you could continue and slowly drill through it. THis would be the best process as your holes will be coaxial aligned.

Practice on something first. Buy two carbide drills honestly the three flute are not cheap but will work much better than a standard nitrated two flute drill.

Another option.... If there is a small machine shop in your area ask them if they would be willing to do this for you?

Good luck.

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V1ntage

Thank you for taking the time to give me so much insight, you have a lot of experience/skill - much appreciated.

I'll take your advice on the drill bits and get myself a Dremel.  Although a local machine shop would probably have a higher probability of a good result I'm drawn (naively) to doing it on my own.

I reckon the hardest bit is going to be ensuring my entry point aligns to the existing lug chamber (sic).

Anyway, thanks again and I'll update on the project.

 

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Alhig72
If this post is still live, can you shed some light on how you drilled the lugs. Attempting first build of a vintage rolex 36mm and will need to drill lugs on case I've ordered. I read  a post where the method was to use a dremel in a work station. Any advice much appreciated...I'm a total noob.
The lugs were already drilled but just needed enlarging to take gen spec spring bars,
To drill lugs blind you will need a pillar drill and a small piece of metal tubing and a small block of wood to use as a guide,
Glue the metal tube with epoxy to the wood and then cut out a section just big enough for the lug to fit in, then it's easy to keep the alignment for the hole on the other side

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Alhig72
The lugs were already drilled but just needed enlarging to take gen spec spring bars,
To drill lugs blind you will need a pillar drill and a small piece of metal tubing and a small block of wood to use as a guide,
Glue the metal tube with epoxy to the wood and then cut out a section just big enough for the lug to fit in, then it's easy to keep the alignment for the hole on the other side

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Also if you keep the bottom section of the tube at 20mm so it fits snugly between the lugs it will help keep it all steady

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V1ntage

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, my brain is not computing the metal tube/wooden block method. If it's possible to make any clearer for this noob it would be appreciated. However, I'm willig to concede that if I can't understand the advice then the application might be a bridge too far...:fearlessleader:

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Alhig72
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, my brain is not computing the metal tube/wooden block method. If it's possible to make any clearer for this noob it would be appreciated. However, I'm willig to concede that if I can't understand the advice then the application might be a bridge too far...:fearlessleader:
Ok,bear with me and I'll knock something up to show you what I mean

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Alhig72
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, my brain is not computing the metal tube/wooden block method. If it's possible to make any clearer for this noob it would be appreciated. However, I'm willig to concede that if I can't understand the advice then the application might be a bridge too far...:fearlessleader:
Ok so I don't have a tube or wood to hand but I used a straw and some Lego to give you an idea, ideally the tube should be only a bit bigger in diameter to the size of the drill but I also thought that if you just drilled a hole straight through a small block of wood or plastic you could then cut out a section for the lug to fit in which could work better as you could drill it the correct size,
Now I hope I'm explaining myself ok 90891bb9c616e1c2afdc477341c5202b.jpg

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V1ntage

Wow :Applause: Great explanation and mock-up, much appreciated. I can see this minimizing the risk of the holes not aligning. Making the guide will be a sub-project in itself. Thanks again. Will let you know how I get on. I'm going to put the watch together w/o drilling first, as it's my first build but I know I won't be happy until I've drilled the lugs...

Thanks again!

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Alhig72

Yes but I've had a better idea,
A block of hard wood, I've drawn it badly but the beauty of this way is that you can put a spring bar thru the hole between the lugs to hold it in the right place and then drill the pilot hole,
Number 1 would be the view from above .

Wow :Applause: Great explanation and mock-up, much appreciated. I can see this minimizing the risk of the holes not aligning. Making the guide will be a sub-project in itself. Thanks again. Will let you know how I get on. I'm going to put the watch together w/o drilling first, as it's my first build but I know I won't be happy until I've drilled the lugs...
Thanks again!
I hope this helps bff02833f0b2b02ad7757dab8b07091a.jpg8d3d5ae1979b03896a823bc3750cf0db.jpg0be6808f155671910bb766fdcb5bbadc.jpg

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V1ntage

Bloody marvelous!! Suddenly visions of gouged case-shoulders and holes not aligning have disappeared.

Maybe you should patent a little case-drilling gizmo.

Joking aside, for anyone doing this on a regular basis a bit of time spent making such a tool would be a good idea.

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Alhig72

Yes just put it in place with the spring bar,put the case/gizmo in a vise under the pillar drill and off you go, you would only need the initial pilot hole to be small then remove the gizmo put the case back in the vise and finish drilling

Bloody marvelous!! Suddenly visions of gouged case-shoulders and holes not aligning have disappeared.
Maybe you should patent a little case-drilling gizmo.
Joking aside, for anyone doing this on a regular basis a bit of time spent making such a tool would be a good idea.


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V1ntage

...coming back to it again, I can really see this working, maybe not need to wait so long for drilling lugs. Will send pics whenever I make the drilling aid.

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Alhig72
...coming back to it again, I can really see this working, maybe not need to wait so long for drilling lugs. Will send pics whenever I make the drilling aid.
A drill like this would do the trick , does the holes nice and straight, 42f6c2ea0650de8aac0a6f20dd600e4c.jpg

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V1ntage

That's a good price. I was thinking of getting a Dremel and using it in a work-stand. Then I'd have the added features of the Dremel. However, reviews suggest the Dremel work-stand is not so sturdy and I think that's more important than secondary features of the Dremel.

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Alhig72
That's a good price. I was thinking of getting a Dremel and using it in a work-stand. Then I'd have the added features of the Dremel. However, reviews suggest the Dremel work-stand is not so sturdy and I think that's more important than secondary features of the Dremel.
Drilling lugs with a Dremel doesn't work very well, for drilling /enlarging already existing lug holes I just use a hand drill and start with a drill bit small enough to almost fit in the hole (1mm) and then 1.2 and finally 1.3mm.
If a drill bit breaks out the case in a vise and put a small needle file in from the opposite side and tap the broken end out ,using a hand drill to enlarge the holes means that you can feel if the bit snaps and stop straight away to minimise just how stuck it gets,

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V1ntage

I agree. I think stability has to be the priority...I've often regretted going for multi-purpose tools/solutions. 

BTW - what's your view on drilling out the lugs? My build is a vintage 36mm 2 tone Rolex, champagne dial and I'll put a brown croc strap on it. I know it's personal preference, just wondered...

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Alhig72
I agree. I think stability has to be the priority...I've often regretted going for multi-purpose tools/solutions. 
BTW - what's your view on drilling out the lugs? My build is a vintage 36mm 2 tone Rolex, champagne dial and I'll put a brown croc strap on it. I know it's personal preference, just wondered...
Yes,not a bad choice, one thing worth thinking about is that the white gold and yellow gold vintage datejust didn't have lug holes drilled only steel cases but I'm not sure they did a white gold/ yellow gold 2 tone so for accuracy you would have to drill.

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V1ntage

Yeah, that's how I see it. I've seen that the solid gold cases aren't drilled but wasn't convinced a rep gold case would look good.

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HorFan
Yes but I've had a better idea,
A block of hard wood, I've drawn it badly but the beauty of this way is that you can put a spring bar thru the hole between the lugs to hold it in the right place and then drill the pilot hole,
Number 1 would be the view from above .
I hope this helps bff02833f0b2b02ad7757dab8b07091a.jpg8d3d5ae1979b03896a823bc3750cf0db.jpg0be6808f155671910bb766fdcb5bbadc.jpg

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This is Brilliant@alhig72 ! Thanks for sharing!

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