hanski 40 Posted August 6, 2018 I’ve just wrapped up (for now) another one of my ongoing projects - a 1680 Red Submariner. Inspired by some of the mid-70’s versions I’ve seen on Chrono24, etc I imagine this was a fairly well care-for watch serviced several times with a replacement, service dial and insert. Case isn’t too beat up and isn’t over-polished. The specs on the project: - JK Factory Case, Caseback, 93250 Bracelet, Open 6/9 Datewheel and Dial (purchased from TrustyTime) - Clark’s 25-127 Crystal - WSO Bezel Assembly - Athaya 702 Tube and Crown - WSO 580 Endlinks - Sellita SW-200-1 Movement - Raffle’s Time Hand Set I relumed the hand set, pearl, and dial to match. Pearl was lumed then finished with clear coat of binder for durability and gloss. Like my other vintage project, I went for a vintage tone lume a high-intensity, green glow. Insert has been very lightly bleached, just enough to eliminate the gloss finish. Crown guards have been squared off in the front, case was lightly aged via a tumble in a bag of screws, all exposed edges were eased, and case was repolished. Athaya tube installed with Blue Loctite and tube hole countersunk to ensure tight fit of crown when screwed down. SW200-1 was purchased from a fellow member but needed the keyless works to be repaired. I repaired the keyless works then installed H5 second wheel, minute cannon, and hour cannon along with a date wheel from an ETA2836-2. Dial was fitted with a slightly thicker dial spacer. This modification allowed me to fit the slimmer SW200-1 into a case designed for an ETA2836-2 while maintaining stem alignment. Everything has been installed as friction fit, gaskets sealed and siliconed. Bracelet has been minimally aged. Sometime in the future I will likely swap out the DW Overlay and Dial for better quality. Working with a Ruby’s Watch dial on my 1675 project, the quality difference is super obvious. I should also get around to doing a water resistance test - I’d like to know how water resistant I’ve built this. I honestly worry the most about the crown tube since I countersunk the top edge but otherwise feel good about things. Here’s some pics, thanks for looking! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Logixa 8 Posted August 6, 2018 Looking pretty cool mate! Well done! Guess we have another modder on Rwg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Suk 0 Posted August 6, 2018 Good work!Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RussP 22,228 Posted August 6, 2018 That's lovely. Never heard of a sub powered by the SW200, which graced a couple of Nautilus reps that I once owned. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hanski 40 Posted August 6, 2018 7 minutes ago, RussP said: That's lovely. Never heard of a sub powered by the SW200, which graced a couple of Nautilus reps that I once owned. I know, some of the purist out there would shudder at the idea of high-beat movement in a low-beat replica but I really liked the sweep on the original A2836-2 and decided to keep that feature when I switched out movements. I'm not trying to make a 1:1 replica. I'm in it to make a durable, high-functioning homage watch that I can use in the office, working on the house, cycling, running, and treasure hunting at depths of 2m underwater in the pool. The pure functionalist in me honed in on the 2824-2 as it was built to only 3-hands and date, not day/date like a 2836-2. I was originally intending to go with a genuine ETA 2824-2 (I've got a spare one sitting around now) until I discovered Sellita. I really like the Sellita movements, with the SW200 being a copy of the ETA2824-2. In working on gen ETA, Chinese ETA, and Sellita, I have to say both ETA and Sellita are a pleasure to work on. The Chinese, not so much. As a side note, I've learned through conversations with San at Ofrei that the Sellita brand is simply a handful of ex-ETA employees who struck out on their own to build affordable ETA movements once the patents expired. I understand there may be some minor differences but at my level of working on this stuff, it seems negligible. I've also noticed some watchmakers and parts suppliers see them as fakes - but I don't agree with that sentiment. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hanski 40 Posted August 6, 2018 57 minutes ago, Logixa said: Looking pretty cool mate! Well done! Guess we have another modder on Rwg Ha - thanks! Maybe ambitious hobbyist is a good description. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hanski 40 Posted September 22, 2018 Updated my 1680 build with the VN dial (relumed, shaved to fit case, and dial feet soldered on) and a pip made from scratch (tiny ball of lume covered in epoxy 330). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bigballs8 0 Posted September 22, 2018 (edited) Very nice but aren't you new to this forum Edited September 22, 2018 by Bigballs8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FoxWilde 155 Posted September 23, 2018 On 22/09/2018 at 01:57, Bigballs8 said: Very nice but aren't you new to this forum hmmmm He hasn't posted a "best Rolex sub?" thread so he's no noob in my book... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
