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ClassicWhite

Tudor 9411 / Rolex 5513 Bezel assembly

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ClassicWhite

I Just got this in from an RWG TD who shall remain unnamed.

Since missing out on a Blue snowflake recently in M2M, ordered a JKF 94110 to dabble my hands at a bit of upgrading.

After checking that it winds etc, just put my watchmakers knife between bezel and the midcase at 5 o'clock, and pop it came off very easily.

To my surprise, the whole plexi came out with the bezel.

To my even greater surprise, the whole freaking bezel assembly including the clamping ring? retainer? came out in single part with the crystal.

I had plans to change the plexi so it's all good, but I have no idea what to use to glue the retainer to the case. Some kind of epoxy for SS against SS? Can anybody advise please?

AYg38.jpg 

AYV7R.jpg

Anyhow; plans for this at the moment are;

  • Plexi change to Sternkreuz 25-125 with UV bond
  • Ghost bezel - The shiny bezel ring looks very off. Matten it at least.
  • Drill lug holes to accept 2mm spring bars
  • Age the case by softening it a bit
  • The blue dial is a shade lighter than gen. Maybe change it to a black one
  • Hand lengths are all wrong - Change hands if I can find better ones.
  • Change crown to a better looking 702 - probably Athaya

Thanks in advance.

 

 

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NCRich

Not the TDs fault, they are all like that.  The JK factory either got a new batch of retaining rings or plexis and they are not a tight enough fit.  Your best option is to find a plexi that is a bit larger than the one you have so the fit will be tighter.  I've got a 1680 recently and that is the same watch and I did all that you did plus relume.  I've currently just UV glued the plexi on, which is what the factory did.  The whole thing popped off because it was glued together because the parts don't bloody fit!

So I haven't gotten around to measuring the plexi and retaining ring to see which is whack.  Hopefully it is the plexi and the SK or Clarks will solve the problem.

BTW Athaya crowns suck. (I'm famous for saying that)  They look good but they don't work worth a shit.

Good luck mate.

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Intresting
1 hour ago, ClassicWhite said:

I Just got this in from an RWG TD who shall remain unnamed.

Since missing out on a Blue snowflake recently in M2M, ordered a JKF 94110 to dabble my hands at a bit of upgrading.

After checking that it winds etc, just put my watchmakers knife between bezel and the midcase at 5 o'clock, and pop it came off very easily.

To my surprise, the whole plexi came out with the bezel.

To my even greater surprise, the whole freaking bezel assembly including the clamping ring? retainer? came out in single part with the crystal.

I had plans to change the plexi so it's all good, but I have no idea what to use to glue the retainer to the case. Some kind of epoxy for SS against SS? Can anybody advise please?

AYg38.jpg 

AYV7R.jpg

Anyhow; plans for this at the moment are;

  • Plexi change to Sternkreuz 25-125 with UV bond
  • Ghost bezel - The shiny bezel ring looks very off. Matten it at least.
  • Drill lug holes to accept 2mm spring bars
  • Age the case by softening it a bit
  • The blue dial is a shade lighter than gen. Maybe change it to a black one
  • Hand lengths are all wrong - Change hands if I can find better ones.
  • Change crown to a better looking 702 - probably Athaya

Thanks in advance.

 

 

Good OP not shooting from the hip to "name and shame" long standing TDs at any problem within the first few posts.    Good on ya and looking forward to see your finished product.  :D

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Popperini

As Rich says wrt the crystal popping off - they all do that (or at least there’s a good chance it’ll happen when you remove the bezel). It’s nothing whatsoever to do with which TD it came from, so the concept of not “naming and shaming “ them is meaningless. (EDIT: This comment was meant for Intresting, rather than the OP!)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by n0bby

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ClassicWhite

Thanks all - I wasn’t thinking at all about blaming the TD - I get that its how it arrives from the factory (I imagine glued using a single drop of watered down bond by 12yo boys in a sweat shop) and I wouldn’t expect TDs to check anything other than that its the right model. I thought I could make it clear that Im NOT blaming the TD by not disclosing it, but guess it doesn’t work. I was just trying to say it newely arrived. 
 

(I did let them know that it fell apart in my email of receipt, (that I'm still happy with it), so they could perhaps complain to the factory for their own leverage, dunno if that’s how it works - if thats how they all are, guess not)

Anyhow from Rich’s comments I gather that the inside of the plexiglass is glued to the little ‘ledge’ of the midcade, and the retainer rings are pressure fitted to the plexi normally?

Is that how it is for gen too?

SK plexi is ordered so I will update when I make some progress / find out SK fits better. 

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NCRich

In a gen the plexi fits over the ledge, the retaining ring is pressed onto the plexi to form a watertight seal, the fits between the retaining ring and bezel and then it snaps on.  No glue. 

The retaining ring and plexis are service items so Rolex could change the dimensions of them over the years.

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ClassicWhite

Thanks for the reply Rich btw. 

Just an update. 
SK does fit much better. Outer dimensions seem to be the same so the plexi must be ever so slightly thinner making inner dimension that much bigger. 
Just one issue I didn’t foresee - cyclops doesn’t match up to the Current date hole hahaha. There are numerous reports of this on web so god forbid I should’ve done some research before I started. 
Checking out some photos of (what I thought before were) gen, I now cannot unsee the misalignment of date windows to the cyclops too. 
I’m going to have to get a dial to match first and also change out the datewheel(overlay?). This is getting into uncomfortable territory I think. I should’ve just gone for some PAM that I could just buy and wear. Urgh. 

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NCRich
On 30/11/2019 at 19:49, ClassicWhite said:

Thanks for the reply Rich btw. 

Just an update. 
SK does fit much better. Outer dimensions seem to be the same so the plexi must be ever so slightly thinner making inner dimension that much bigger. 
Just one issue I didn’t foresee - cyclops doesn’t match up to the Current date hole hahaha. There are numerous reports of this on web so god forbid I should’ve done some research before I started. 
Checking out some photos of (what I thought before were) gen, I now cannot unsee the misalignment of date windows to the cyclops too. 
I’m going to have to get a dial to match first and also change out the datewheel(overlay?). This is getting into uncomfortable territory I think. I should’ve just gone for some PAM that I could just buy and wear. Urgh. 

No, I'd just sand off the cyclops and polish the plexi.  Looks better without the damn cyclops anyway.  I'm not kidding.  250/500/1000 grit and then plastic polish.  I did it on my 1680 and liked it much better.

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TheGingerFerret

Or just revert to the original plexi? I found on mine that when pressed in properly, they tend to  pressure fit okay, I think the factory just loosely press them on perhaps? Fuck knows, but if you want the cyclops, that's an easy way to do it (and you can just Hypo Cement it in if loose).*

 

 

 

*PBR Disclaimer. I know nothing about watches. Listed to me at your peril.

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ClassicWhite

Just a quick update in case this helps anybody who is a mere mortal not like NCRich. 


1) Drilled lugs for fat spring bar : People will tell you to use 1.2mm or even 1.25mm drill bit, but 1.1mm is okay if you’re hand drilling it like me. You will wobble the hell out of it, making a bigger hole than the drill bit. Buy about 1 bit per hole coz you’ll break a lot, oh and get a proper strong hole punch coz the broken drill bit inside the lugs is a bitch to try and get out. 


2) Baked the light dial to make it darker : The blue dial was too light and blue, should be more french teal. After finding out that somebody managed to get yuki blue dial darker after baking it, I tried it too. Baked it in 200 degrees C for about an hour, the colour became darker and the lumes became puffy. Try it at your own disposal. Taking out the movement and the dial was half the work with my flumsy hands and cheapo magnifier  

3) Bleached bezel : I wanted to make a less saturated gray-ish ghost bezel. After putting it in acid, it did nothing, so I bleached it for good hour. Its much lighter but it became fuckin baby blue. Might have to replace this  
 

4) Coffee’d hands : It does work. Make a strong thick gel with instant coffee, dab it on and wipe of off roughly. Instant aging. 

 

ye51E.jpg yeeK2.jpg yeUMn.jpg

 

Put it back together and lets see if I haven't fucked up the movement...

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Popperini

Nice work on the dial baking, and the insert looks good in the photos. I replaced my dial and insert with aftermarket ones (dial from eBay, insert from Tiger Concept) because the JKF ones seemed too horrifically bright blue to work at all. I still haven't put it all back together, for various reasons, the main ones being that I'm lazy and have a minuscule attention span. I've been sharing my experiences with Redheart in a build thread he started over on RWI.

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