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sconehead

My Pam 111/6497 fix continued...

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sconehead

Well, as promised, here is the second part of my mini-tuto which involves removing a set lever screw from a donor movement.

 

I was going to post the whole thing, all the way to actually fixing my watch but it would have been too long winded imo. More installments to follow soon...

 

I spoke to Robert (PWC/T4D) regarding my newly purchased 111 that had developed a fault. It wouldn’t wind. I suspected the set lever screw just needed tightening and he gave me the ok to take a look.

 

Unfortunately the problem was more serious than that, the set lever had, in fact, sheared it’s threads.

 

I contacted him again and to save all the hassles of returns etc, told him I was happy to try and fix the fault myself.

 

The 6497 is supposedly a lot less complicated than the 2836-2 movements I’ve worked on previously and told him it shouldn’t be a problem for me. He agreed and said he would ship the bits I needed to fix the watch.

 

 

05072009105i.jpg

He sent me out a complete movement to cannabilize, now that's service for you...

So first things first, get the part I require for the fix.

 

IMPORTANT, before working on any watch, I make sure the mainspring is completely unwound...

 

Well, here we go...

 

 

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Remove the crown wheel...N.B. the screw is a left handed thread...

 

 

05072009110.jpg

Not forgetting the crown wheel ring...

 

 

05072009111.jpg

 

05072009112s.jpg

 

05072009113.jpg

Then the ratchet wheel...

 

 

05072009114.jpg

 

05072009115.jpg

 

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Followed by the 'click' mechanism. Notice in the first shot, I put a piece of Rodico over the click mechanism itself. This is to stop the click spring from going into orbit when I unscrew the click...

 

 

05072009119.jpg

 

05072009120.jpg

 

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Unscrew the two screws and remove the barrel bridge...

 

 

05072009122.jpg

 

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Voila, the pesky little part I require for the fix...

 

 

05072009124g.jpg

Side by side showing the broken set lever screw on the left...

 

As a side note, I used this link, http://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html to aid me on the movement... :thumbsup:

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greg_r

My eyesight ain't good enough and my hands are certainly not steady enough for that kinda work - fascinating to see, though. Great stuff, Sconey! :thumbsup:

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Massimo

I've finished off a few cheap movements with my tinkering, still hope to improve with more practice to break fewer and fix more, but I reckon I could do that fix, especially with this guide. Thanks very much for the excellent breakdown and photos. That link to ETASwissLab is very handy too!

 

Who says RWG.cc has all the best tech? Our own database is coming along nicely.

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onzenuub
My eyesight ain't good enough and my hands are certainly not steady enough for that kinda work - fascinating to see, though. Great stuff, Sconey! :thumbsup:

 

 

That is because of all the things you did when you was young :lol:

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RolexAddict

Really interesting, as this movement is also a classic used in reps,

 

Nice and sharp pics, and clear explications,

 

thanks sconehead for sharing your experiments and knowledge,

We need that kind of articles in this technical section,

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sconehead
Really interesting, as this movement is also a classic used in reps,

 

Nice and sharp pics, and clear explications,

 

thanks sconehead for sharing your experiments and knowledge,

We need that kind of articles in this technical section,

Thanks everyone... RA, I'm learning as I go along, I hadn't even looked inside the back of a watch just under 2 years ago, modding and messing with movements are what I like best in this hobby... :D

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scope

Good information Sconehead. This is all very addictive. :thumbsup:

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lfh

congratulations, you see it is not difficult, I tease,

it is very well to make us of your experience be of benefit, especially you had taken care to disarm the spring, what trés few people make, supporting he does not stay more than has definitely grease the points of contacts of rooms and hop it left again. (especially definitely pay attention to the outrigger, me advice to take it away to avoid a bétise baby of manipulation if you are not to get used)

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup::daffy::Whistle::notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

:Whistle:

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cybee

Great post sconey, thanks for showing us. Also that is a nice tip to know with the rodico and the spring.

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Silverspeed

Great post...these pictorials are very helpful.

 

Is there a way to release force on the mainspring...other then letting it run out?

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sconehead

Yes, hold the crown firmly between thumb and finger. Turn the click mechanism so it releases it's 'hold' on the ratchet wheel. Keep the click in this position and release the pressure on the crown and control the rate at which the mainspring unwinds...:boobies3:

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Silverspeed
Yes, hold the crown firmly between thumb and finger. Turn the click mechanism so it releases it's 'hold' on the ratchet wheel. Keep the click in this position and release the pressure on the crown and control the rate at which the mainspring unwinds...:boobies3:

 

Thanks :boobies3:...always wondered on how to do that

does it work the same way on a A7750?

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graman

Wow!...fantastic....

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lfh

Thanks :rofl:...always wondered on how to do that

does it work the same way on a A7750?

 

for 7750, it is necessary to disarm the clockwork of subscriber trunk dialling and to deasrmer the spring of cylinder at the level of the wheel of cylinder.

excuse me for this explanation but I definitely do not know how to put photographs to explain, I am void in English and in computer science.

:rofl: :rofl:

:lol:

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MikeMcNair

This is a fantastic thread. Absolutely invaluable!!!!

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