Different Oils

[anthonyd 0]

Hi, can the watchsmiths's out there answer a question for me?

 

My wife is treating me to the timezone online courses for christmas and I am looking at the tools they provide. Thanks to the RWG shop I pretty mich have all the tools needed with the exception of the required movements and lubricants they mention on lesson 2.

 

For lesson two they sell the following:

Moebius Syntalube 9010

Moebius 8141

Moebius D-5

Moebius 8217 "Glissalube 20"

 

I already have Moebius 8000 from the RWG shop, the others listed above are somewhat expensive.

 

Is it absolutely necessary to have all these different oils? Or would the 8000 suffice?

[10:10 Watch Repair 1]

'necessary' depends on how well you want the watch to run. For a class, don't worry about it, concentrate on proper oiling technique (although different oils require a different touch.)

To service a movement, it depends. If you're working on a Molnija, you can probably use motor oil and get a decent result, but for most movements, the different lubricants can make a big difference. Use the wrong one and you get the black gunk that builds up with the Asian movements in the reps, or, you create too much drag on the watch and cause all kinds of problems.

 

5 lubes is a lot though. Really you need a heavy viscosity, a light viscosity, and a grease. If you get really anal, a super lightweight lube for the pallet jewels.

 

Good luck, the TZ course and some reps to mangle can take you a long way.

Edited November 7, 2011 by cls

[twall 1]

I asked the guy teaching me watchmaking this very thing. He says two oils for most apps (nanolube and moebius 8000), and a super-lightweight for (real) chronos.

 

He uses the lightweight (8000) for jewels (even pallet) and a heavier nanolube for the mainspring.

[offshore 0]

I asked the guy teaching me watchmaking this very thing. He says two oils for most apps (nanolube and moebius 8000), and a super-lightweight for (real) chronos.

 

He uses the lightweight (8000) for jewels (even pallet) and a heavier nanolube for the mainspring.

 

Yep, I keep those 2 on my bench, and they cover just about all needs.

O/S

[anthonyd 0]

Good luck, the TZ course and some reps to mangle can take you a long way.

 

 

I am certainly hoping so. I have a 7750 movement with sec at 3 that keeps stopping. I ordered a replacement movement from Mary, so the old one is a canidate for disassembly and reassembly (and parts thereafter).

 

I also have a cheap $30 rep I got in china on a visit that I accidently broke the crystal on, so there is another movement I can play with, also a 21j that currently runs very very slow.

 

So between those three spare movements and the ones that come as part of the course I am hoping i can be in a position to service my proper reps in a year or so's time.

 

It has been quiet a steep learning curve, 4 months ago I did not even know that the top watch brands still used mechanical movements, then after buying that rep in china and breaking it, I discovered this forum. I know have 8 reps and have even rebuilt the keyless works on one 7750 when it stopped working after removing the stem.

 

This is the beauty of reps, if I spent a few thousand on a gen, I would not dream of even opening it up, at least with the reps I can tinker around and get to the point where I do not need a watchmaker to do my own services. (I may be overambitious on that last point)

[10:10 Watch Repair 1]

This is the beauty of reps, if I spent a few thousand on a gen, I would not dream of even opening it up, at least with the reps I can tinker around and get to the point where I do not need a watchmaker to do my own services. (I may be overambitious on that last point)

 

Definitely you can service your own watches. Check out ETA.ch Swisslab from assembly and service of a 2836, 7750, and 6497.

 

The one thing TZ won't teach you is all the other parts of a watch, and on reps, that's the most hacked together thing and can be the most difficult to work with. Rep hands may be too loose or too tight, case clamp clips and movement rings don't always work well, dial overlays are too high, dials are too low, stems crowns and pushers don't always work right, and that damn ETA clone keyless works is always a problem.

Patience and a lot of reading on the forums will help.

[anthonyd 0]

The one thing TZ won't teach you is all the other parts of a watch, and on reps, that's the most hacked together thing and can be the most difficult to work with. Rep hands may be too loose or too tight, case clamp clips and movement rings don't always work well, dial overlays are too high, dials are too low, stems crowns and pushers don't always work right, and that damn ETA clone keyless works is always a problem.

Patience and a lot of reading on the forums will help.

 

Sounds more like a challenge than a problem.

[10:10 Watch Repair 1]

The one thing TZ won't teach you is all the other parts of a watch, and on reps, that's the most hacked together thing and can be the most difficult to work with. Rep hands may be too loose or too tight, case clamp clips and movement rings don't always work well, dial overlays are too high, dials are too low, stems crowns and pushers don't always work right, and that damn ETA clone keyless works is always a problem.

Patience and a lot of reading on the forums will help.

 

Sounds more like a challenge than a problem.

 

Tell me that the fifth or sixth time you have cased and uncased a watch...

[vexorg 0]

Is the coarse worth it? I know i'll be mostly working on clones but are they that much different?

[10:10 Watch Repair 1]

Is the coarse worth it? I know i'll be mostly working on clones but are they that much different?

 

The TZ course is a lot of fun if you have the mindset for it.

Clones and ETA movements aren't very different, but the tolerances are different so clones don't always go together easily. There are also a lot of pressed parts in a watch movement (many in the notorious keyless works.) Those have a tendency to break in Asian movements.