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RolexAddict

WORKING ON GEN MODERN AND VINTAGE ROLEX WATCHES

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RolexAddict

I actually work for some watch collector shops and have gen modern and vintage Rolex on my bench for various mod jobs, repair or servicing,

 

I dont have often the time to take photos or I don't think about.

As I have finished a few GMT and Subs buildings, I have a few days "zen" before the second round next week... so, before the rush I decided to share some photos,

 

here a nice little Air King with his movement ref. 3000, pics just for the sport,

 

ak0j.jpg

 

ak1w.jpg

 

ak2x.jpg

 

Explorer II ref 16570, the model with drilled lug holes and sapphire cristal.

This watch came with the former owner's name engraved on the case back.

 

The Mission :

erase the case back flat area and restore the brushed metal style. Just a routine machine job. Later the cristal will be replaced as here its an aftermarket with a very bad cyclop.

 

explo3z.jpg

 

explo4.jpg

 

explo0.jpg

 

Close up on the 3185 movement

 

explo1.jpg

 

 

 

GEN VINTAGE ROLEX RESTORATION : The new concept

 

Working on gen vintage watches is really exiting as the target of this new concept consists to restore damaged parts and not to swap with service parts or aftermarket as do AD's or corner of the street watchsmithes.

 

Most of the time jobs consist to do minor polishing on case, case back, plexi, also restore the lume, remove dust and rust spots on hands and dial, or also fix a sticky crown cannon spring.

 

The message :

Collectors are affraid by Rolex charts... Swiss people are circled by mountains and live in a restricted area... they have a limited and formated view. Classic watchmithing.

My shop will care and restore original conditions, not replace by service parts and charge 600 euros...

 

Often hands are so contamined by moisture than they need to be remplaced. New hands lume is removed and remplaced with new tinted chemical products to match with the dial lume, then these new hands with "old tritium" are aged, using various processes to give a patina

Unfortunately, I didnt take photos before the job as I didn't have projected to write about this. Photos were only destined to the watch owners.

 

Following, some sample of very simple, regular easy jobs, the problem with that kind of routine, it could turn into a nightmare if you brake a part during disassembling/reassembling

 

 

 

The GMT Master 16750

 

This 16750 is the classic pepsi with a jubilee bracelet

 

The job was to clean and relume the GMT hand and the seconds hand and fix a lose rotor. Both hands were rust and the tritium turned in a strange kind of green color

The movement/dial bloc is pulled out from the case

 

pepsi1.jpg

 

A close up of the problem...

 

pepsi2.jpg

 

The job is finished, now all hands and the dial markers are matching together

 

pepsi3w.jpg

 

pepsi4.jpg

 

pepsi0.jpg

 

 

 

The GMT Master 16753 TT

 

This second watch had some moisture problem on the dial and hands. The GMT, hours and minutes hands were tarnished. The seconds hand gold platting was off and the background metal seriously rusted. The tritium had a very nice cream patina but was completely dead, which is normal.

 

The customer specifications were to clean and restore the GMT hand, hours and minutes hands and replace the seconds hand.

The customer wanted also - if possible - to find again a very good luminous ability but at the same time he wanted to preserve this natural old tritium patina.

 

Unfortunately, as for the 16750, I didnt take photos before the job as writting about this was not scheduled.

 

Here, the watch after restoration,

 

This 16753 is the late issue before the fat transition case. The dial is printed OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE and has yellow gold ringed markers.

 

tt0f.jpg

 

tt1r.jpg

 

First step was to remove the tritium from the dial markers and hands and keep it preciously. The removed tritium fragments are in the little cup.

 

tt2mt.jpg

 

These fragments will be reduced in powder then mixed with strontium aluminate and a medium to get a creamy pasta. This will be the new lume material : same old patina color and aspect, but with 20 hours luminous capacities.

The strontium material is used in aircraft industries for aircraft instruments and cockpits panels and associated with retro-lightning technologies. Actual formula is free of radioactive elements and is able to stay luminous almost 20 hours after only a 30 minutes strong light exposure

 

Hands are really ruined by a kind of tarnish although they are in solid yellow gold, exept the seconds hand which is gold platted and has to be replaced, it was probably a rep hand. The other hands have been cleaned and coated with a clear varnish

 

tt3b.jpg

 

Also here, some views from the Rolex 3075 movement.

The difference between the 1675 and the 16750 :

Both 1675 and 16750 series use the same case, plexi and bezel. Only movements are different.

The 16750 has a differnent hand stack, 28.800bph, and the quick date set for the 3075. But both 1675 and 16750 models don't have GMT hand setting ability. The GMT hand follows the hours hand.

 

mov1.jpg

 

mov0.jpg

 

the dial face :

the GMT complication is not so complicated. Our Asian and Swiss rep movements are 11,5 and need an adaptal ring to fit the rep cases. Rolex movements are all larger, 13,5 lines.

I made a test, I swapped a Rolex movement in various rep cases, even these jerky crapy pot metal cases from Dominican Republic and Thailand : it works fine, with minor fitting of course. So, no mystic.

 

mov2.jpg

 

the ressucited 30 years old tritium

 

tt4d.jpg

 

Next on the bench next week :

An original red Submariner 1680 for a collector from England,

Complete restore/rebuilt with almost 100% genuine NOS parts

to be followed,

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KeNnY

Great work Jean :)

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DFH

Great stuff. Jean!!! Thanks for sharing - nothing like a gen Rollie - there's just something, an "X Factor" that the reps never seem to catch...

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sconehead

JJ, this is hardcore stuff you're doing mate...;)

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The King

Lovely work JJ. When I get my LV back from you (Did it arrive yet?) I will send you my gen 5512. It's got the original patina dial with very creamy lume but a service/replacement hand-set that isn't quite as faded.

 

If you could get them more alike that would be great. :)

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DeLaForce

Nice

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powderfreak

That's some beatuiful watches right there, thanks for sharing and taking pictures!

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RolexAddict

Thanks guys, next will be the gen 1680 red... DHL delivery expected today

 

Lovely work JJ. When I get my LV back from you (Did it arrive yet?) I will send you my gen 5512. It's got the original patina dial with very creamy lume but a service/replacement hand-set that isn't quite as faded.

 

If you could get them more alike that would be great. :)

 

Hello V :) still waiting your shipping, it will arrive,

for your 5512, thats exactly what collectors expect, and they are affraid to give patined watches to Rolex centers as all old parts will be replaced by new service parts... and this reduce the value,

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seclark007

Wow, just wow! Thanks for the show!

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Member X

Brave man!! I could never do that! :unsure:

 

 

I would hesitate about restoring the 1680 to NOS condition, though, unless it's completely wrecked :lol: lol

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Mendota

Wow, fantastic work! I am really excited to see pics of the 1680 red sub when you receive it. I would love to see the before, during, and after!

 

Thanks for taking the time to post this.

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GWT

love these roliee's

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RolexAddict

Wow, fantastic work! I am really excited to see pics of the 1680 red sub when you receive it. I would love to see the before, during, and after!

 

Thanks for taking the time to post this.

 

I got all 1680 parts... its just amazing... incredible,

 

before, during and after is scheduled,

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solkryssare

Respect JJ!! We need to talk 5512 build btw ;)

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Member X

:ttiwwop:

 

 

 

 

 

;) :P

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gB.

Wow...

 

 

2188305_o.gif

.

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santiago82

Awesome works..and fanstastic watch's..

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2Rol

Very happy those having a watch from JJ!

Me too...

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