HOW TO: Moddify your Rolex DeepSea (DSSD)

[gioarmani 2]

After a visit (or three) to Mayor's--my local AD--I decided to give the rep of the DSSD a try, shortly after it was released in 2008. The piece pictured is the DSSD V3 from Andrew (Trustywatchguy.com)

 

The V1 was a comedy skit, the V2 much improved but still too far behind the gen to even consider seriously, the V3 seemed pretty impressively close to the real thing, and other than the gloss dial and bezel issues, there seemed no reason not to take the V3 to it's logical, modified conclusion.

 

And yes, I do own the V5 and the same mods were performed on it as well.

 

After shelling out for the V3, waiting on whatever version they were working ondidn't seem like money or time well spent, in my opinion; judging by past experience with Chinese rep makers, they seem to take two steps forward, one step back, and then one step to the side (while two issues might get addressed, a third is created in the process).

 

So, based on some ideas bounced about on this, and other forums--including the other modding tutorials I've created in the past--I decided to take my V3 up a notch. Arguably "minor" details, of course, but even compounding minor details can make a world of difference to anything.

 

 

 

To get started, here's what you'll need (besides the obvious DSSD V3):

 

 

1) A jewelers/watchmakers screwdriver kit:

 

http://www.amazon.com/FULLER-135-0916-16-P...9527&sr=8-1

 

 

 

 

2) A caseback opener:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Watch-Pavilion-Profe...9595&sr=8-1

 

 

 

 

 

3) Some 2-ply, waterproof marine epoxy

 

 

 

 

 

4) Flat black & flat white enamel modeling paint

 

 

 

 

5) A can of aerosol dust-remover

 

 

 

 

6) Silicon grease & a brush to apply it

 

 

 

 

 

7) Some toothpicks

8) A fine, short-haired brush (I used a 20/2)

9) An old cotton t-shirt

10) Nail polish remover & a hair-dryer

 

 

First, let's start with the marine epoxy, since it's going to take longer to dry than the paint.

 

The HEVs on reps are rarely functional and generally a perfect spot for leaks to destroy the movement, so this one we'll seal up right away.

 

Here's a few macros of my HEV, from the inside (after the movement was out):

 

Normal/resting position:

 

 

 

When depressed:

 

 

 

You can easily see what a liability this will be for the movement when submerged.

 

Since we need to remove the movement in order to seal it, we can actually kill two birds with one stone and spray the dial matte while the epoxy sets up.

 

Use your caseback opener to remove the ring:

 

 

 

 

 

Then lift off the second caseback guard underneath:

 

 

 

NOTE: This second piece that comprises the majority of the caseback is NOT titanium, but merely a piece of steel painted gray. Be careful not to scratch or get nail polish remover on this, as it will remove the paint.

 

Once these are off, you're ready to remove the movement. First, pull out the crown to the time-set position. Then, use your 1.2MM screwdriver to slightly depress the release mechanism for the crown-stem.

 

(I know the next two pics are of my SSD V2, not the DSSD, but you get the idea)

 

 

 

 

Now gently remove the stem:

 

 

 

Personally, I can't stand these ridiculous rotor overlay decals...

 

 

 

...as they tend to peel off a lot of the time when removing the rotor anyway, so I prefer to simply remove them. There's no way anyone with half a braincell is going to believe this is a gen movement once they've opened the back, so let's just trash the overlay.

 

 

 

That looks better. :(

 

 

Now simply use your screwdriver & remove the rotor:

 

 

 

 

Once this is done, simply remove the screws holding the spacer-ring to the case and remove the spacer-ring & movement. Now you've got you're empty case:

 

 

 

It's nice to see the manufactures/dealers kept their word by making this a true, triple-lock crown system, just like the gen:

 

 

 

Now let's start to seal that HEV from the inside by mixing up a bit of equal portions of the marine epoxy:

 

 

 

Use your toothpick to carefully apply it to the inside of the case, covering both the HEV's hole, and spreading it over a bit of the case to blend it:

 

 

 

 

Now, let's turn our attention back to those slightly small and dull looking numbers on the bezel insert; the nice thing about making them brighter & whiter is that the optical illusion given off by the new color will make the numbers look slightly bigger and/or wider.

 

The reason I chose to do it this way--instead of using a spray paint, was to not only save time by not having to mask off the rest of the watch, but too have better control and not worry about over-spray winding up between the insert & the bezel, or worse, between the crystal and the insert. This way, you're not really taking any chances and saving a redundant step.

 

Start by using your fine, short-hair brush and apply a little of the flat, white model paint to the tip. Paint the engraved markings on the bezel:

 

 

 

Make sure not to get too much on your brush--you only want to apply a thin layer, not glob it on--and be careful to not get any paint on the lip of the insert, whether it's the lip near the crystal or the bezel.

 

Once this is done, you can hit it with a hair-dryer on warm/low for a minute or two to get the paint to dry:

 

 

 

Now that the paint is dry, stretch a portion of a cotton t-shirt over your finger and apply a small amount of nail polish remover directly to the t-shirt:

 

 

 

Make sure the shirt is only damp with the remover, not soaked, you don;t want to bleed all the paint out of the markings. Gently wipe the excess paint off the insert markings using straight--not circular--motions, moving from the inside of the insert to the outside:

 

 

 

 

Make sure you gently & carefully clean around the pearl.

 

You'll notice there is still a bit of film/residue on the insert & crystal; don't worry, it's normal:

 

 

 

 

Dry it again with the hair-dryer for another minute or two.

 

Since my SSD had a problem with losing the paint on the casebcack, I'm going to repeat the same process on the back, with the flat black enamel paint, as an assurance that it won't be chipping or fading any time soon:

 

Before:

 

 

 

Part 2 in a couple of posts... (Edit: KinCaidk)

[jojo8989 0]

That looks great! But what happened to the last pics?

[trailboss99 994]

It's an issue with the total pics per thread setting.

We are looking into it.

 

 

Col.

[greg_r 81]

Currently the board can only support 30 pics per post. Sorry guys, but we're kinda stuck with that limitation...

[KinCaidk 0]

I split the original post as there were to many pictures:

 

After:

 

 

 

 

Now grab your polishing cloth; NOT Cape Cod, or any other sort of treated cloth--make sure it's dry and not abrasive--I use a gen Rolex polishing cloth that came with the box set:

 

 

 

Now firmly wipe off the excess, dried film from the bezel using a circular motion, as shown:

 

 

 

Let's look at how much better the physical appearance is already between the before and after:

 

Dull and thin:

 

 

 

 

Now it looks wider and more brilliant:

 

 

 

Much better! :P

 

Now it's time to waterproof the gaskets, using the silicone grease and a small, flat brush:

 

 

 

Apply a small amount of the silicone grease to the tip of your brush and apply an even coat to all rubber gaskets.

 

The first is inside the crown:

 

 

 

 

The second is on the outside of the crown-tube, and the third is on the inside of the tube:

 

 

 

 

The fourth & last is the gasket that surrounds the 2nd caseback piece. If you can, peel it off gently--making sure not to damage or stretch it--and apply the silicon grease to both sides of the gasket, then reattach the gasket to the caseback:

 

 

 

 

Once you've completed this, you can go ahead and place the movement and spacer-ring back inside the case, making sure to properly align the dial with the ring-lock and bezel on the front (by holding the movement steady while looking through the front crystal), before securely screwing them in.

 

Make sure you blow the dust out of the case before reassembling it:

 

 

 

 

 

NOTE: Getting these in & out of the case was a bit of a pain in the ass for me, not having any experience in disassembling a DSSD before. On mine, the screws had a beveled edge and the trick was--unlike other spacer rings (e.g. a 2836-2 Submariner)--you screwed them down firmly to the spacer ring BEFORE putting them back in the case. The beveled edges had to line up with the case, as if they overlapped, you couldn't get the spacer ring seated down far enough, properly. On my Submariner, for instance, you would seat the spacer-ring first, THEN screw them in tightly. On this model, you back the screws out a bit AFTER the spacer-ring is seated. Backing the screws out on this will actually fill in the space between the tops of the screws and the case, thus pushing the spacer-ring down against the movement and firmly securing it where it belongs.

 

Once that's done, you simply push the crown-stem back into place and it should look just as it did before disassembly.

 

 

 

 

Your piece should look much closer to the gen DSSD now. And you've spared yourself fretting over what mistakes need to be corrected on the next release of this model, not to mention saving your money.

 

Here's the final product--compared with the bezel-insert marking on the gen:

 

Rep:

 

 

 

Gen:

 

 

 

And one last shot, set aside to completely cure, inside and out, overnight:

 

 

 

I hope this is of some help to you guys who were either worrying if they should do with their current model or wait for the next release. Feel free to post any comments or questions.

 

Enjoy!

[Member X 91]

Great post, thanks for the pics of the bezel mod!

 

I might need to do this at some point so pics are a big help

[SirDomino 0]

Great post, thanks for the pics of the bezel mod!

 

I might need to do this at some point so pics are a big help

 

Great tutorial!

 

I am wondering if you could go into detail on how to get the 12 marker lined up to the engraved coronet on the rehaut? As I have heard they are usually slightly off.

 

Also, how do you ensure the crystal is pressed in fully/evenly?

 

Thanks again!

[KeNnY 29]

Thank you !

[SirDomino 0]

Thank you !

 

How do you remove/replace the rotating bezel?

[KeNnY 29]

How do you remove/replace the rotating bezel?

 

you have to disassemble whole watch and pop out the crystal... will do tutorial next month

[tissotman 0]

ive got a new type sub with that ceramic bezel and the numbers are very poor infact i no longer where it as it looks an obvious fake even though its got an eta movement and the rest of the watch is good i will try that on this one and let you know the results.

[opus9 0]

great thread and now i will attempt to paint my bezel on my sub...nunu this is also for you and your sub mate...

[KeNnY 29]

great thread and now i will attempt to paint my bezel on my sub...nunu this is also for you and your sub mate...

 

 

hope you will have good paint buddy ! Good luck and show us pics then ! :ninja:

[opus9 0]

great thread and now i will attempt to paint my bezel on my sub...nunu this is also for you and your sub mate...

 

 

hope you will have good paint buddy ! Good luck and show us pics then ! :ninja:

 

 

It will be my first and last attempt. If its shite i am going to order new insert from mary!!!

 

regards matej...

[d1isthe1 0]

Where did you get the bezel insert from kink .. yours is the most perfect bezel inserts that i've come across... thanx for sharing

Edited August 10, 2011 by d1isthe1

[MikeMcNair 0]

Where did you get the bezel insert from kink .. yours is the most perfect bezel inserts that i've come across... thanx for sharing

 

X2

 

I got a used gen one and it doesn't look as nice as yours.

 

Wtf!

[tsomers 0]

I would like to know too!

[Haltec 0]

Very nice...

 

You shoud try to dissasemble or made functional He valve, nice to see that maybe this is mechanically functional, but shouldn't it go outwards only?

 

 

For releasing He acummulated during diving jobs inside "bell" - so that crystal won't blow off from the case.

 

 

 

 

BR

 

 

Haltec

[SteveA 308]

Tried to paint the bezel numbers but each time I wipe with a barely damp t shirt it all comes off ,the paint is not sticking.The enamel Iam using is water based(its all I could find) do you think that this is the problem ?

[Captain Swoop 0]

Yes, if it is water based it is Acrylic paint. Completely different.

 

Go to a model shop and get Testors or Humbrol 'Enamel'

[SteveA 308]

Yes, if it is water based it is Acrylic paint. Completely different.

 

Go to a model shop and get Testors or Humbrol 'Enamel'

Its marked up as Enamel but water based.I will have to find a model shop thanks

[Captain Swoop 0]

Stuff that needs to be thinned with white spirit or lacquer thinner not water.

[Libertatia 0]

just to confirm, are these equivalent to the paint the OP used?

 

humbrol white enamel matt:

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1e7a472441

 

or

 

humbrol white enamel gloss

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1e7a4723de

 

and

 

humbrol black enamel:

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item19cf8c5642

Edited June 10, 2013 by papabear

[MikeTex 0]

Fantastic step by step instructions with great pics. Thanks.