scorpion 0 Posted January 1, 2013 (edited) Faulty Breiling LCD display missing segments of digit Dam the deep freezing failed - maybe I was given false hope by members winding me up but I definitely recall it working on some older displays back in the day. Time to strip it down and see what beats inside it.............................. Back seems easy to get off, no sticky balls needed!....................... Ok its off and the LCD displays battery is 3 Volts, guess the screw to the lower right will remove it................... Out it comes, Maxell battery rep or gen I wonder!...................................................... Removed the black plastic section to show circuit board................. Circuit board just lifts out, seems ok with no obvious faults.................. Close up - all tracks on the LCD contacts part are intact, cleaned them with contact cleaner, they were a bit dirty so that could be the problem....................... Close up of the analogue movement made in JAPAN clearly shown. At bottom of pic is the rubber contact strips and again these were dirty so cleaned up. And after reassembly.................................... Go back to the very first picture ....... bummer no change its still got same fault. So thats about as far as I can go, I tried pushing the display from the rear and whilst the other digits moved about the faulty part had no sign of life. Not sure exactly how the actual LCD display part is made and if its possibly a fault there or if its the circuit board but either way its beyond me to fix it. Someone suggested running a solder iron over dry joints but as you can see its a micro board and has no solder to run over where the contacts are. Its tiny and even my smallest solder irons tiny tip would burn the board too bits so not an option. Open to any other suggestions - freezing failed what about 3 hours in the oven? Edited January 1, 2013 by scorpion Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg_r 81 Posted January 1, 2013 C4 always works.... bummer, though... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DR3M3L 4 Posted January 1, 2013 The first picture looks like a bad contact. When I've removed LCD panels and replaced them, if the rubber contact wasn't perfect I would get a similar look. Otherwise maybe replacing of the polarizing filter will work.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
onionbag 1 Posted January 1, 2013 Nae luck mate. :( Try it under a running tap? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DR3M3L 4 Posted January 1, 2013 http://www.digitalwatchlibrary.com/forums/viewthread/140/#263 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scorpion 0 Posted January 1, 2013 C4 always works.... bummer, though... Yep I thought so as well but it seems Greenhat has taken all my stash of C4 away for a special op. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LightGeek 25 Posted January 1, 2013 Open to any other suggestions - freezing failed what about 3 hours in the oven? No, 3 hours would toast it. The accepted norm is 1.5 hours at 325, bottom tray, then let it cool. Back in at 400 for 0.5 hours. Test with a toothpick for done-ness. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffw69 0 Posted January 1, 2013 insert witty comment here Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DR3M3L 4 Posted January 1, 2013 insert witty comment here :lmao: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyril_Clunge 0 Posted January 1, 2013 I would like to say in my defence that I recommended the freezer plan in good faith as it has worked on other displays for me in the past. My comments on the other thread about saying it for a bet were just a joke I think you've done all you can mate, if the LCD segments themselves are knackered I can't think of a DIY fix. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scorpion 0 Posted January 1, 2013 http://www.digitalwa...thread/140/#263 Thanks Joran but in that link when he pressed the display down it worked, mine wont work with pressure applied so its a different fault. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyril_Clunge 0 Posted January 1, 2013 insert witty comment here Can you PM that to Ted and ask him to make it his default post? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffw69 0 Posted January 1, 2013 insert witty comment here Can you PM that to Ted and ask him to make it his default post? I think he put me on ignore. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scorpion 0 Posted January 1, 2013 I would like to say in my defence that I recommended the freezer plan in good faith as it has worked on other displays for me in the past. My comments on the other thread about saying it for a bet were just a joke I think you've done all you can mate, if the LCD segments themselves are knackered I can't think of a DIY fix. Cyril no defence needed, I knew you guys were jesting tskkk and especially Dal - double tsskkkk! But you could have mad a quick £10 if the bets were real!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scorpion 0 Posted January 1, 2013 Open to any other suggestions - freezing failed what about 3 hours in the oven? No, 3 hours would toast it. The accepted norm is 1.5 hours at 325, bottom tray, then let it cool. Back in at 400 for 0.5 hours. Test with a toothpick for done-ness. Will give this a go later - I dont have a tooth pick will a sledge hammer work? And should I quench it in a bowel of cold water then re-freeze it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HeavyKrush 16 Posted January 1, 2013 Wow Scorp, looks like you've done all you can mate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sconehead 5 Posted January 1, 2013 insert witty comment here 'rhubarb' :lmao: ...fixed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luthier 1 Posted January 1, 2013 Measure the battery power. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
offshore 0 Posted January 1, 2013 If you have analogue working ( which should have its own 1.55 power source), and some digi display, its not circuit or power, the issue is in the actual display module. Now by the look of the photo showing the Jap movement, the display is part of the dial assembly? So you will either need to source a replacement dial/digi display, or find an old timer who worked on those displays. ( They can be repaired by those who know how) I can't see from the photos if that display is easily accessible, or if it is part of the dial and sealed...if the latter, you have some work ahead of you. Have a sniff around and see if there are any old timers who worked on the old Seikos, those were the ones most repaired. O/S Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DR3M3L 4 Posted January 1, 2013 insert witty comment here 'rhubarb' :lmao: ...fixed Now I totally understand the tasks of a Moderator! Good fix Sconehead :lmao: Back to topic; really sucks, after some google searches I found out these problems are hard to solve... Moist of them end like: "I'll buy a new one" or "Doesn't matter anymore, put it in trash." :( Sorry mate, couldn't find any tips or repair tutorials... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
offshore 0 Posted January 2, 2013 Just reading through this again...there is no mention of the obvious! You did test the battery or replace it? BTW the one which came out is a gen....I know the tell! O/S Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trailboss99 994 Posted January 2, 2013 ...there is no mention of the obvious! Luth did, two posts or so back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scorpion 0 Posted January 2, 2013 Just reading through this again...there is no mention of the obvious! You did test the battery or replace it? BTW the one which came out is a gen....I know the tell! O/S Thanks for the input. I am of opinion that the battery is fine as the rest of the display is fine and the built in light is also working. Its not a battery I have lying around as its a lot thinner than my stash of CR2032s so I will need to order one. How do I test it - I recall you should not put them on a usual test meter as it can flatten them or am I imagining it? I have a multimeter so what am I looking for other than voltage - I goggled that it should be 2.7v minimum and if its 2.5 replace it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
offshore 0 Posted January 2, 2013 Yes that is a 2016....20 mm dia X 1.6 thick. The 2032 is 3.2 thick. Have not heard about flattening them and I normally test in a standard + / - tester and I am looking for 3V as indication of full power and not less than 2V. Use a multi and look for those figures.....I agree with your assessment, although I have seen batteries almost dead flat still powering 2 or 3 functions with no indication of low voltage. So a new battery with 3V just removes any doubt. O/S Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dalboy 2 Posted January 2, 2013 Scorp !! I got a pp9 and a hammer you can borrow.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
