How to clean and oil a watch

[onzenuub 307]

GETTING STARTED

 

Just took some time to put this together, it doesn't cover all watches, just to give you a general idea. You can't just start turning screws...there are a number of things you will need to do (and get) in preparation. You will have much better results, and a much more enjoyable experience if you take the time, effort, and expense to get most of the items listed below BEFORE starting. Keep in mind that these are just the bare essentials. The bottom line is that preparation and having the right equipment is vital to success of any repair job!.

 

Workspace. Set up a well lit workspace with a clean, flat surface. For a beginner a kitchen table will do just fine, but as you become more serious you may want to consider a watchbench made specially for repairing watches and a good fluorescent lamp which is easier on the eyes. A watchbench has small built in drawers for all of the tools and parts you are sure to accumulate over time. The design is tall, with a surface that (when sitting) is close to the face so the repair person doesn't have to slump over when working. Some repairmen will put cork or linoleum on the surface. These soft materials stop parts from bouncing away, and aren't hard enough to damage anything dropped on them. Some benches even have a slide out "parts catcher" that presses against the belly when sitting.

Most beginners will (as mentioned above) begin at a kitchen table. A good tip for working at a table is to lay down a fine piece of white fabric (like a plain white pillowcase or cheesecloth) to do your work on. The main advantage for doing this is if you drop one of the parts, it won't bounce away and become lost. I suggest white because tiny screws (etc.) are easy to locate. This practice will also save your table from scratches, and protect your watch from the tables hard surface. To keep it from shifting, you might want to consider taping it down with masking tape as well.

 

Screw-driver set. You WILL need a good set of watchmakers screwdrivers. This is a MUST. The cheap sets will cause more trouble than they are worth. They are not precision made and you will easily damage or strip the highly polished screws found in most watches. The keen eye of a watch collector will pick this up immediately.

The proper way to hold it is to grip the screwdriver shaft between the thumb and middle finger, with the index finger on the cupped end (which rotates). Press down on the top of the screwdriver and swivel it between your thumb and middle finger; turning the screw.

 

Parts Tray. You will also need a place to put your parts as you remove them from the watch. Don't get in the bad habit of placing parts on the table or bench (trust me on this one!) you are bound to lose something. I would highly recommend a common (inexpensive) flip top tackle box. Get one with 8 to 12 sections. They are available in most department stores. An empty egg carton will also do just fine, but will flip easily sending parts flying, so be careful. Simply place the parts in order from left to right as you remove them from the watch. When it is time to reassemble, just go in reverse order and you will know what part is supposed to go next. Numbering the compartments is a good idea to make absolutely sure you are going in proper order.

 

Tweezers. Get a good pair of fine tweezers. Removing and returning small parts without tweezers is nearly impossible without them. It will take a while to master this skill... use a soft grip... hold something too tight and the part will ricochet around the room... Tweezers are available at the department store, but you will eventually want fine quality watchmakers tweezers.

 

Cleaning Supplies. If you get really serious about this hobby, you will definitely want to buy an ultrasonic parts cleaner and specially designed parts solution. You can buy the old bulky mechanical ones on Ebay for about $100 and the solution costs about $35 per Gallon. The ultrasonic machines are more expensive. Both machines use the same liquids. This is definitely the way to go.

You can also use Naphtha. Naphtha is the main ingredient in Ronson Lighter Fluid. It works very well and evaporates leaving almost no residue. Simply pour a tiny, tiny bit into a small cup and soak your parts for a few minutes. Then brush between gears and in jewel holes with a small coarse tipped paintbrush, or eyelash brush. Once you are satisfied the part is clean, remove it from the solution, place it on filter paper which absorbs most of the fluid. The remaining fluid simply evaporates leaving a clean part. Use a blower to quicken the dry time.

 

************** WARNING **************

WATCH CLEANING SOLUTIONS AND NAPTHA CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS. THEY CONTAIN SOLVENTS THAT CAN LEAD TO SERIOUS HEALTH PROBLEMS. THEY ARE DESIGNED FOR PROFESSIONAL OR COMMERCIAL USE ONLY. THEY WERE NOT DESIGNED FOR IN-HOME USE. YOU MUST FOLLOW IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION PROVIDED WITH THE PRODUCT BEING USED. YOU MUST USE THESE SOLVENTS WITH PROPER VENTALATION. KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN. AVOID CONTACT WITH YOUR EYES. AVOID BREATHING THE VAPORS. AVOID ANY CONTACT WITH SKIN. KEEP AWAY FROM OPEN FLAME OR SPARK AS THEY COULD RESULT IN FIRE CAUSING INJURY TO PERSON AND PROPERTY.

 

****** I.E. USE THESE SOLUTIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK !!!******

 

Oil and Oiler. Specifically designed oils for watches are another must. I would recommend Moebius. You don't need to buy a ton of it either. One drop is enough to oil dozens of watches. There are a number of different oilers available. Basically an oiler is a thin piece of wire with the end flattened slightly. They come in different thickness' to deliver different amounts of oil depending on the job. (More about this later)

 

Loupe. You need to see exactly what you are doing and therefore you will need magnification. You should spend a little extra money and get a good optically ground jewelers loupe. I would also suggest buying a low magnification visor, the loupe is a necessity when you need to do some fine tuning and need to see really close up.

 

Blower. Physically blowing on a watch movement is not the best idea. As unsavory as it may seem, when you blow on something with your mouth, you actually blow particles of spit onto the object. I would recommend buying a blower. Not only are they cheap, but they are great for drying off parts that have just been removed from solution, or for removing dust from a dial.

 

Hands Remover and hands pusher. Hands remover tool is a tool designed to lift the hands vertically off of the posts where they firmly rest. The tool avoids damage to the watch dial and the hands themselves. When re-installing the hands, it will be necessary to push down on them firmly with something. A hands pusher tool has a hollow center to avoid damage to the post. Excellent tools that you will need to get the job done right.

 

Watch paper. This is special tissue paper is used for placing parts to dry. This paper is lint-less and very absorbent. (Scotts toilet paper also works very well, and will do for now)

 

There are many many other tools that you will want to get as you get more serious about this hobby, but the tools listed above are a good start.

 

Now that you have the prerequisites out of the way, you are ready to go. I would strongly recommend that you start with a watch that you are willing to ruin, because chances are you will most likely destroy your first watch. The oil in watches breaks down over time and becomes gummy. This slows the watch down, and eventually it stops. The task at hand it to take the watch apart, clean it, oil it, and reassemble it. Easy right?

 

YOU WILL MOST LIKELY BREAK THE FIRST WATCH YOU TAKE APART DO NOT PRACTICE ON YOUR FAMILY HEIRLOOM

 

Opening the Back of the Watch

Pocket watch and wrist watch cases have been designed in MANY MANY different ways. How to open a watch back can be found HERE. Some pocket watches have backs that are on a hinge. You simply place a fingernail under an edge and pop it open. Sometimes you will find another "door" inside. This is a dust cover. Owners would use the first door as a way to stand the watch on a table or night-stand and the second door kept gunk out. The same method is used to open this door... pry a fingernail under the edge and it will usually pop open. A case knife (shown in the margin) can be very helpful in opening may different watches. They aren't sharp enough to cut you, but are designed with a nice rounded edge that makes opening a watchcase a breeze, and won't damage case of the watch. I would highly recommend this purchase... You can slit your thumb open nearly to the bone using a sharp pocket-knife!!!!

 

Letting Down the Mainspring

Now that you have opened the back and accessed the movement (or the guts) of the watch, the first step is called "letting down" the Mainspring. The mainspring is a long piece of steel ribbon that is rolled up and held tightly inside a cylinder called the "Mainspring Barrel". In this state, the mainspring is under constant pressure because it is a fairly rigid material that wishes to lay flat, and not be rolled up. When a watch is wound, this mainspring is rolled up even tighter which stores the energy needed to run the watch. The task at hand is to make sure the watch is not wound at all. This is done by "Letting Down" or unwinding the watch.

Taking a wound watch apart could not only damage your watch, but will most definitely send pieces zinging all around your workshop. The proper way to let down the mainspring is a bit tricky. Wind the watch a bit so you can observe the moving parts and locate the "click". A "click" is a tiny metal stopper that clicks every time it passes over a gear. (it is marked on the labeled picture). Its purpose is to let the "Mainspring Ratchet Wheel" (that's the big gear) turn in only one direction (i.e. the wind direction) and stops the mechanism from going in the opposite direction (i.e. the unwind direction). Get a wooden skewer or large toothpick handy (watchmakers use a sharpened bit of pegwood that you can order from a jewelry supplier). Hold the watch in one hand with your thumb and index finger on the "crown". A "Crown" is the term for the button that you turn to wind and set a watch. Turn the crown in the wind direction slightly to release pressure on the "click". The click will move out of the way a bit of the "mainspring ratchet wheel". When you see this, use the point of the toothpick or skewer to push the click further out of the way in such a way that it disengages completely from the gears. Now hold it carefully this way and VERY SLOWLY release your grip on the Crown. If you have done it right you will notice that the crown will begin turning in the unwind direction between your fingers. Slowly let the watch unwind completely.

yellow arrow: loosen this screw and the stem and crown can be removed.

1. Stem and crown

2. Train bridge

3. Balance cock

4. Balance wheel, 4 also marks the hairspring

5. Barrel bridge, the big wheel is the mainspring ratchet wheel and the smaller one is the crown wheel

6. Just above # 6 is the winding click

7. Center wheel.

For a further explanation on how to remove a watch movement please read HERE

 

Remove the Hands

An inexpensive hands remover should be purchased to remove hands properly. It is a pressure fit that holds hands firmly in place over their respective post. There is a Hour post (a post in a watch is usually called a pinion), a Minute hand post, and a second hand post. The diameter of the hole in the center of the hand is just microns smaller than the post that it fits over. This pressure fit is what holds it in place. Like the force that holds a cork in a bottle. No screws, No glue. A hand pulling tool grabs under the hands and then sets down little feet on the dial for leverage. When you squeeze the tool, the grabber pulls off the hands with no damage to the dial. You can try prying them off using a jewelers screwdriver, however, PRACTICE on a cheap watch, before doing this on a better watch... (better yet... order the hands puller). The screwdriver will leave small scratches on the dial, so you'll want to use a piece of paper to protect the dial when prying. I use a piece of paper even when using the hands-pulling tool just to keep the dial looking perfect. What you can do with the paper is to cut a line in the paper and a tiny circle cut out at the end of the cut. Slide the paper between the dial and hands. This will expose only the hands, allowing you to work without damage to the dial.

 

Removing the Dial

Dials are held in place with tiny posts called "feet". The feet fit into holes in the movement, and tiny screws in the side of the movement screw into the sides of the feet holding them (and the dial) firmly in place. Sometimes the screws are not in the side but in the back. You will notice these screws are a bit strange. The head of these screws has one side sheared off. The post sits right next to the screw, and when the screw is turned, the other half of the screw presses into the post, holding it in place. Look around the edge of the movement (or the back of the movement) and locate these tiny screws. There are usually 2 of them on wrist watches and 3 of them on pocket watches (usually!). Loosen the screws but don't remove them. The dial should lift off easily. Do NOT pry it... ceramic dials will crack, and metal dials will bend if you do! If it doesn't come off easily, loosen the screws a tiny bit more and try again. Place the dial in the parts tray.

 

For a further explanation on how to remove hands and dial please read Here

 

Removing the Hour Wheel and Cannon Pinion

Under the dial, in the center, you will notice a brass gear. This gear is called the "hour wheel". Sometimes this gear will have a small gold-leaf ring sitting loosely on it. Take your tweezers and remove the gear (and the ring if present). It should slide right off. Put it in your parts tray. After removing the hour wheel, you will notice another smaller gear attached to a small shaft. This is called the "Cannon Pinion". The "cannon pinion" is hollow in the center and fits tightly over a post. Removing it can be a bit tricky because it is usually held firmly in place. Use a small hand vice and tighten it over the shaft of the cannon pinion, being careful not to bend the underlying post, and gently but firmly pull it off. If you don't have a hand vice, try needle nose pliers, but be gentle... the cannon pinion is easy to break (or lose). Place it in the parts tray. If you pry under the gears of the cannon pinion with a screwdriver, you will have problems... it will zing off to never be found, or it will break, or will break the hour pinion post.

 

NOTE: NOW IS THE TIME TO WORK ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE WATCH. DO NOT TURN IT OVER AND SET IT ON A FLAT SURFACE. YOU WILL NOTICE THAT THE SECOND HAND POST AND THE HOUR HAND POST ARE PROTRUDING FROM THE TOP "PILLAR" PLATE. IF YOU TURN IT OVER AND START WORKING, YOU WILL SNAP THE POSTS OFF. YOU NEED TO DRILL A HOLE IN A PIECE OF WOOD THAT IS SMALL ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE MOVEMENT BUT LARGE ENOUGH WHERE THESE POSTS DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING.

 

Place the movement "Pillar Plate" down on a movement holder. You will notice that the back of the watch is segmented into 2 or 3 (sometimes up to 6) pieces of flat metal with holes in them holding gears and what-not in place. These are called "Bridges". Locate the bridge that houses the "mainspring barrel" as described earlier. Usually it has two shiny winding gears attached to it (a large gear and a smaller gear). Older movements may not have these two gears. If after inspecting the back of the watch you can only see ONE large plate (i.e. no bridges) it may be necessary to remove the "Balance" FIRST. The balance is the round gyro-like gear with a tiny spring in the center that swings back and forth. (read section on balance). Anyway, back to the barrel-bridge; remove the screws that hold this bridge in place. There are usually places along the bottom edge of the bridge that are notched specifically for prying with a screwdriver. **READ THE LAST SENTENCE OF THIS PARAGRAPH FRIST... THEN PROCEED*** Gently pry the bridge loose. You may have to remove the case screws to be successful (Case Screws are screws that held the movement into the case.. as described earlier). Do not force it. When taking a movement apart, all I can say is that common sense needs to be used. With so many watch designs out there, you may notice that you need to remove the next bridge in order to get a gear out of the way to get at the part you are after. Go Slow and make note of the order that things are removed. A GOOD IDEA IS TO DRAW LITTLE DIAGRAMS OF THE POSITIONING OF THE GEARS ETC. When you get the barrel-bridge out, place it with the corresponding screws in the next section of the parts tray. Underneath this bridge, you will notice two small gears that fit together. One is the "winding pinion" and the other is the "clutch wheel". These gears are what sets the watch. On old pocket watches, it is common that they don't come out Leave them installed. In wrist watches, they will fall out unless the stem/crown is installed. You may want to insert the stem and tighten the little screw that holds the stem in before removing the barrel bridge. Reinstalling these little gears takes patience.!

Moving on to the next bridge, which is called the "Train Bridge". Remove the screws holding it in place and gently pry it loose. Remove it. This will expose a number of gears. Take a minute to examine the gears to see where they go, and how they are situated. You may want to get a pencil and pad and sketch their arrangement. The gears overlap and you will notice that there is an orderly way to remove them. Remove them carefully and place them in separate compartments of the parts tray. There may be more bridges holding other gears. Remove them, and place the parts in the parts tray. Remember the above rule... observe first, then remove the parts in an orderly fashion. Make mental notes of how the parts are situated.

 

Removing the "Balance"

The "Balance Wheel" is the heart of your watch. It is the wheel that has the tiny spring coiled in the center that swings back and forth. The spring in the center is called a "Hairspring". It is held in place by a bridge called the "Balance Cock". The balance wheel is attached to the hairspring, which is attached to the underside of the balance-cock. The whole of these parts needs to be removed together (and held TOGETHER when removed). If you take out the screw, and haphazardly free up and pull out just the balance-cock, the balance wheel will hang and bounce along behind it. This will stretch out and goof up your hairspring and the watch won't run at the end of the day. The proper way to remove it is to remove the screw. Pry and loosen the balance-cock but don't remove it yet. Take your tweezers and gently grab the underside of the balance-wheel, and the upperside of the balance-cock. This will hold the two together for removal. Carefully take them out. Set them UPSIDE DOWN in your parts tray (Balance side up).

 

Remove the Pallet Fork and Arbor

The last part to remove resides under the balance wheel. Once the balance is out you will see it. It looks like a tiny little "T". It is called the pallet fork. It is held in place with a tiny bridge called the "Pallet Bridge". Remove the screw(s) and gently pry up the bridge.

Remove the bridge and place it in the tray. Before taking it out, take a moment to look at the Pallet Fork. The one end actually looks like a tiny three prong fork. Take notice of the center prong and remember that the center prong always hangs down. This will help

you remember when it comes time to reassemble. Remove the Pallet fork and place it in the tray.

 

Please also read this.

 

What are Jewels?

Before the advent of "Jeweled" watches, tiny holes were drilled directly in the steel plates and bridges where the "pivot" of the gears would rest and rotate. Over time the constant rubbing metal against metal would wear the hole and it would get larger. This would allow the gears to wobble and the watch would eventually stop working. In the early 1700's it was discovered that using tiny slivers of shaped ruby with a hole in the center lasted much longer. But rubies were expensive and were placed in only very high quality watches. In the early 1900's synthetic rubies were invented and became widely used in watchmaking. You may have noticed that there are tiny red or pink dots at various places in the bridges and the pillar plate. These are the jewels.

 

Cleaning

Place the "Pillar Plate" in a small plastic cup with some parts cleaner. Let it soak for a few minutes. Then take your brush and thoroughly brush both sides of the plate paying special attention to the jewel holes. If the watch is very dirty, you may want to replace the solution and clean twice. Once you are satisfied that it is clean, remove it from the solution and place it on a piece of "watch paper". Use your blower to dry it off. Later on you will be able to clean all of your parts at once, because even jumbled you will know where they go. For now however, go one section of the parts tray at a time cleaning and drying in this manner. Make sure to clean between the gears and in the jewel holes of all of the moving parts. Once they are dry, replace them to the tray. Clean the balance VERY VERY carefully. Also, Do NOT submerge the MAINSPRING as it will take on solution and it will rust. If there is a Jewel hole on the Mainspring Bridge, you should remove the screw that holds the Mainspring barrel in place and set it (the mainspring barrel) aside and then clean the plate. Or you can simply brush the hole with a wet brush a few times until you are satisfied that it is clean and then let it dry.

Francisco also wrote a tutorial about cleaning, please read here.

 

Oiling

The Cardinal Rule: Using Too much oil will attract dust and stop your watch faster than if you use too little. The only part of the watch that needs oil is the pivot or jewel holes. Again, this is where the posts or "pivots" of the various gears rest and rotate. One side of the hole is always flat (or sometimes capped with another jewel), and the other is usually recessed like a tiny bowl. This "bowl" is where you will place one tiny drop of oil. You don't fill the recess either. Just a teensy-tiny drop in the center of the recess. Carefully oil all of the holes on the bridges and the on the pillar plate.

Oiling most of the jewel holes is very straightforward with the exception of the jewel in the balance cock. When you remove the balance and balance cock, place it on the bench - balance wheel up. Removing the balance wheel and hairspring from the balance cock is very tricky - so it is not advisable to take it apart to oil the hole. Simply (and gently) lift the balance wheel with your tweezers and stretch the hairspring slightly. Just enough to get the oiler in there to put a tiny drop of oil directly into the jewel. If you get ANY oil on the hairspring - you will need to dunk it into some solvent to clean the oil away. You then need to start again from the beginning.

A tutorial about oiling the anbti shock system can be found here.

 

Reassembly

Now you have everything clean, oiled, and organized in front of you, simply work backwards and reassemble.

Install the Pallet Fork and Arbor (PF&A). Some things to note here: There are usually (but not always) two pins called banking pins. The Pallet Fork sits between these two pins. The pins limit the motion of the pallet back and forth. The pallet fork also has three prongs - or forks. Look closely...the center prong sticks out. When reassembling - put this center prong DOWN - towards the pillar plate.

Install the bridge and the screws that hold the pallet in place. Don't forget to oil the jewel-hole. Also, make sure it is in properly. To test this, rock the movement back and forth. The fork should, by force of gravity, rock back and forth.

Install the next "funny looking" gear. into the jewel hole. This gear is called the escape wheel. The little prongs will line up with the back of the pallet.

Install the next gears (in reverse order) as they were removed.

Install the bridge that holds the top of the gears in place. You will need to wiggle the gears one at a time with a screwdriver before the bridge settles in place and all of the pivots are in the holes. Sometimes you can get this in a matter of seconds, and sometimes it can be really frustrating - BE PATIENT.

IMPORTANT: Install the screws slowly, and test the gears to make sure they seem to be loose or "fluid". Using a screwdriver you can also gently push up/down on the gear and see if it slides up and down in the jewel hole. As you tighten the screws keep checking the gears...If they seize as you tighten STOP. This means one of the pivots is not properly inserted in it's pivot hole.

Install the other gears and bridges in the same fashion as mentioned above, and in the reverse order that they were placed in the tray.

When installing the barrel bridge, use a screwdriver (or the crown/stem if installed) to turn the winding mechanism a little. This will engage the gears. Once the bridge is tightly in place, inspect and test the setting mechanism located on the reverse (dial side) of the movement. Make sure everything looks to be in the right order. On a pocket watch, push a screwdriver in the hole. This should engage/disengage the gears. On a wrist watch with the crown in place as mentioned above... click the crown and stem in and out a few times to make sure the gears engage/disengage the setting mechanisms.

Install the Balance. This is tricky, and may take some time to make sure it is in right. Gently hold it as described above and gently place it as near to where it belongs as possible. You will need to gently wiggle it around and gently press down on the regulator until you "feel" that it is in right. IT SHOULD SWING FREELY. If it doesn't seem to work, partially (and gently) remove it partially and try again. There is only ONE way it goes. Once it is in place and swinging back and forth freely, you can move on.

You may wind the watch now to see if it starts up.

Hopefully it is running... Turn it over and install the cannon pinion over the center post. Push it down gently with the tweezers. Install the Hour Wheel.

Install the dial. Tighten the screws.

Install the hands at 12 O'clock to assure proper alignment. Use the hands pushing tool to push the hands down over the post. The hands should be HORIZONTAL with the dial. Should be close to the dial but not touch the dial or the markers. They should not touch each other. You may use your tweezers CAREFULLY to straighten, bend, or align your hands.

Replace the movement in the watch the way it was removed.

Close the case.

 

 

Reading this and this and this can help you.

 

I will also add that all the tools mentiond above and 200 more are available from the RWG shop HERE at prices that can't be beat for top quality tools. All profits go towards this board or GAWs and prizes. You get top quality gear and help out your favorite forum at the same time!

[AustinTech 0]

I think I'll try that stuff once I retire.

 

Well, we will probably have robots do stuff like that by the time I retire. But I'll watch my robot do it.

[trailboss99 994]

Nice post Onze. Love that bench!

May I add that all the tools mentiond above and 200 more are available from the RWG shop HERE at prices that can't be beat for top quality tools. All procedes go towards this board or GAWs and prizes.

 

 

Col.

[KBH 7]

Nice tutorial Onze. I'm almost ready to try this on an old molnija movement.

[onzenuub 307]

Nice post Onze. Love that bench!

May I add that all the tools mentiond above and 200 more are available from the RWG shop HERE at prices that can't be beat for top quality tools. All procedes go towards this board or GAWs and prizes.

 

 

Col.

 

 

If possible you can place the link in the op.

[greg_r 81]

Nice post, Onze!

 

One of these days I'm gonna give it a try. Like AT, however, it'll probably be when I retire!

[trailboss99 994]

Nice post Onze. Love that bench!

May I add that all the tools mentiond above and 200 more are available from the RWG shop HERE at prices that can't be beat for top quality tools. All procedes go towards this board or GAWs and prizes.

 

 

Col.

 

 

If possible you can place the link in the op.

 

Done Sir, thank you.

 

 

Col.

[graman 2]

Way to go Onze....

 

I so want a bench like that........and the tools to fill it......ohhhhhh baby.......

[dasselin 16]

Thank you nice tutorial.

 

New tools, new vocabulary of words. I’m retired now and I do have

Cheap cheap Chines automatic that I could learn on.

 

Dan

[glacon 0]

Fantastic tutorial.

I wish I had read the tutorial before I stripped / destroyed a couple of ETA 2824-2 movements.

I can't believe the price of these 2824's now, if you can source one.

[shpr543 0]

How have I not found this earlier? Very nice tutorial, thank you for putting in the time

[Pharmo 33]

Found this to be very, very useful when i joined a few months ago. Thanks op.

[nyckid 0]

this precious info.

 

thanks Onze

[Gee_J 0]

Excellent tutorial many thanks for spending the time to do this.

 

[nineteenhundred 0]

This is a going to be a great help to me.

[alpl 0]

I'm glad this got bumped and brought to my attention. When watch porn isn't quite doing it for me, there's always watch-accessory porn.

[BigBuys 0]

How in the world did I miss this wonderful creation by onze?

 

Extremely well written and very helpful. Thanks you Onze!

[Lukhard 0]

glad I came across this topic!

[Watchpolisher 0]

Any other tutorials like this but with pics for step by step instructions.

[yctwatch 0]

Wow, can't beat this. Thanks for the great info. Now to break my first watch

[Paparolf 45]

Interesting and informative. Good job