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Silix special PO mod

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Ok guys here's a quick post of a mod I've just done this morning alongside the waterproofing one I've been doing.

First off get you Silix special $35 PO

Some acrylic paint

Bluetac

And away you go.........

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I'll be honest on close inspection the best number is the 6 but I'll be quite happy to take the off rub them down and start again when I've got more time and peace and quite, sitting on the wrist it looks good, next is the bezel mod then I might have a go at that pearl, then I'll get a nice strap for it.

 

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P4GTR

Looks good. Hitting them with a rattle can or airbrush would've made it perfect. I have one on the way, might try it. Were you able to waterproof the watch? Is the He valve drilled through?

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HarleyMo

How do you get the numbers off and put them back on?

 

Sent from my Barnes & Noble Nook HD+ using Tapatalk 4

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Gelg

Silix special PO is my first watch, I still wear it once in a while. May be a good project, thanks for the suggestion!

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TRANSPORTER

Ok guys thanks for the interest, the numbers on this silix special lift off, each one has two small pins that locate into the dial,I used a wooden tooth pick to help lift them off the dial.Saves possible scratches.

The HE valve on these is drilled all the way through.

As for waterproofing, yep shes waterproof to 3.5ATM, with ref to the HE valve i basically backfilled the hole with silicone grease and smeared some around the thread of the HE valve aswell. then just screwed it tight, the rear case I just greased with silicone and screwed down tight (so mush easier than a Rolex) happy days.

Just need to get a very nice rubber with black stitching deployment strap off ebay for it, but it costs more than the bloody watch does haha.

 

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HarleyMo

Great, thanks for the info. Im seriously thinking of painting those numbers. Looks much better orange. Was there a specific color orange you chose? Or just tried to match the dial as much as possible?

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P4GTR

Ok guys thanks for the interest, the numbers on this silix special lift off, each one has two small pins that locate into the dial,I used a wooden tooth pick to help lift them off the dial.Saves possible scratches.

The HE valve on these is drilled all the way through.

As for waterproofing, yep shes waterproof to 3.5ATM, with ref to the HE valve i basically backfilled the hole with silicone grease and smeared some around the thread of the HE valve aswell. then just screwed it tight, the rear case I just greased with silicone and screwed down tight (so mush easier than a Rolex) happy days.

Just need to get a very nice rubber with black stitching deployment strap off ebay for it, but it costs more than the bloody watch does haha.

 

Good stuff. Thanks for the reply!

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Harley Mo I'll take a picture of the paint I used and post it up here ok so you can see the exact type I used, I'm pretty sure it's called pumpkin but wait out before you go and buy ok

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TRANSPORTER

Hi MO as promised here's a piccy of the paint I used for the dial numbers, I'm trying to do numbers that have been printed on, on one of my Naarika POs but its extremely difficult to get the flow correct using the capillary action off a cocktail stick, I'll keep at it though!!!!

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HarleyMo
Hi MO as promised here's a piccy of the paint I used for the dial numbers, I'm trying to do numbers that have been printed on, on one of my Naarika POs but its extremely difficult to get the flow correct using the capillary action off a cocktail stick, I'll keep at it though!!!!

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Thank you very much. I really want to do that to mine also

 

Sent from my Barnes & Noble Nook HD+ using Tapatalk 4

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tony1

I'm going to try this. Great thread. Can I pls ask some questions:

 

Instead of taking the numbers off the dial (as I'm a touch nervous whether I'll succeed both in getting them off intact and back on without coming loose), is it feasible to carefully paint the numbers on the dial (with protective pieces of paper protecting the dial, albeit I wouldn't be able to put any paper within the number, only around it) ? So it could only work if I can get the paint carefully only on the number, with no drips.....

 

What did you use the blutac for?

 

Which position should the crown be when removing it- your photo looks like the middle, date change position?

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TRANSPORTER

Hi Tony, the stem is in the time set position when I remove it ok. I would strongly reccomend that you do remove the numbers, it's really easy to do, use a tooth pick like I did, I used the blue tack as I didn't have any rodico at the time just to sit the numbers on as they have two small pins on the rear of them which you can gently push into the blue tack to help hold them steady.

As for painting the numbers I used a brush to start with but gave up, I did however brush over the numbers with a bit of emery cloth to key them up to help the paint adhere. I then used a toothpick dipped in the paint and used capillary action to drop the paint onto each number, then waited for them to dry and using tweezers put them back on the dial.

 

I have another thread on the Silix feedback forum on the other mod I did to the bezel and pearl if you feel like looking it up, the title is Silix cheapies Rolex and PO if I remember, it's started by someone else, I just jumped on it. Hope this helps mate any questions either PM me or reply here ok.

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tony1

Very helpful thanks. Got the numbers off, although the paint is having a tough time sticking. I'll see once dry. (Edit- hasn't binded properly, I think I'll try a mixture of red metal paint and yellow acrylic).

 

But... the stem fell apart after I removed it and tried to reinsert. Am I right the spring should be put at the right hand side end of the stem (in the photo) and the crown screws on top? It just won't hold. Don't know if a piece fell out.

 

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Edited by tony1

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Hiya mate, well done so far, when you put the numbers back on be mega careful with the tweezers and use a loup aswell, makes it so much easier.

Ref the paint not binding to the numbers, I had the exact same problem, that's why I used abit if emery cloth to key up the surface, also a brush was useless, that's why I used the loaded tooth pick idea.

Right onto your next problem, yes the dpring goes onto the right hand side of the stem as we look at it, I've zoomed into the picture to look at your crown, there should be a threaded part in the crown to allow you to screw it back onto the stem, I can't see anything in there, is there anything like that in the crown??

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tony1

Hi. Any chance you could upload a photo of how the crown should look. Do you mean there should be an insert? I presume the black washer which is just to the left of the central part of the stem (the circular part) isn't meant to go in the crown.

 

The crown interior does have threads in the structure but there's no additional insert. When it came apart the dpring fell out but I didn't notice anything else fall (which doesn't mean it didn't....). Thanks.

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TRANSPORTER

Hi tony, could you possibly wait till this evening for the photo, I will remove my stem and have a look at it properly then and send photos, I havnt unscrews my crown from the stem, that's not to say it doesn't either, I'm hoping that yours hasn't snapped. But having the doring there tells me it's a screw on crown so fingers crossed we can get this sorted for you ok, I'll post piccys tonight mate

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tony1

Much appreciated thanks. I now think the black ring shouldn't be where it is in the photo, on the left hand side of the mid part of the stem ( I must have put it there in reassembly). I think it should be in the crown, as an insert. The dpring I think would be placed on top of the stem/inside the crown) and the stem then screwed into the crown and the crown black insert. I'm guessing that's the right configuration but can't get it to screw in. It's very fiddly on the finger tips and after 5 times losing the dpring on the floor and searching for it I'm happily awaiting your photos!

 

On the plus side, a mixture of metal red paint and yellow acrylic has produced a decent orange which, after some emery on the numbers has clung. Waiting for it to dry.

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TRANSPORTER

Hi tony, sorry I'm late, well I've taken my stem out and taken a couple of photos for you.

Now my stem/crown does not have a spring, not to say that yours shouldn't have one, quality control in reps isn't great. Looking at my stem it seems that the stem pushes into a tube on the crown and not screw, again it looks like our stem/crowns are different, about the only thing the same is the black rubber flat gasket, that sits in the crown and when it's screwed down it makes the seal against the crown tube, on mine I've put an extra rubber gasket on my stem that fits in the crown tube as an extra water deterrent as I waterproofed mine to 3.5ATM.

Anyway here are the pics of my stem for you to have a look at

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tony1

Different crown as you say but thanks very much for checking. Well I can't figure out how to attach the stem to the crown. If anyone reading this can work it out from my last picture I'd be very grateful.

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dave1978

when you take the numbers out do you have to use glue or do they pop back in the 2holes?

 

also the Omega sign looks pretty good and right height did you move it?

 

thanks

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TRANSPORTER

Hi Dave, the numbers are a nice snug fit and pop straight back in, mine haven't moved since I done the mod, as for the omega logo I haven't touched that, it's how it came from Silix.

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dave1978

thanks transporter, that a super logo for 35$:-)

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tony1

Well....I sorted the stem. You have to screw it into the watch head, which then compresses the stem against the black ring within the crown.

 

But...I reinserted the stem rotating counter clockwise (looking from the rear of the watch). It seems to be in the first position (that "pop out" position from which normally you can screw the stem closed.) But normally this position would not turn the hands and it does. It doesn't change the date.

 

Continuing to turn it and slightly pushing it in eventually it screws tight but then stops the second hand.

 

If I pull it out to the outermost position it grinds as if catching and still moves the hands.

 

Any ideas please? It's almost as if the spring is stopping the stem inserting far enough but I'm not sure. I don't think I damaged the stem so presume I've damaged or loosened the keyless works.

Edited by tony1

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TRANSPORTER

Mate, have you got any blue tack? If you have put a blob of it on the crown, then using a screw driver depress the stem release button whilst the stem is in the time adjust position, tip the watch on its side so the weight of the blue tack pulls the stem out the watch, hope you understand this explanation.

Then reinsert the stem gently turning and pushing, it should fully engage back in place. I'm afraid I can't help you with the keyless works as touch wood I've never screwed one up yet.

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tony1

Hi again. I can get the crown and stem out, just can't get them back in in correct alignment. I've just found quite a few useful threads on resetting the keyless works, assuming it's that. What a faff though, have to remove the hands and dial and then several more parts. All of which carries the potential I'll mess it up further. Going to think on it over the next few days. Fortunately just a $35 watch, albeit an even nicer looking one with orange numbers!

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