puckskraper 0 Posted August 17, 2010 I just received my Asian copy 2836 noobmariner from TS and the rotor sounds like a nickle rattling around, scraping and slapping loudly . Granted this is my first rep purchase and I know automatics make some noise when you move your wrist but it seems excessive to me. I would have noticed this on friends gens. Is this normal for a rep? Also, my datewheel doesn't always "grab" when rotating the crown, and sometimes skips a rotation. Also, the date text nearly touches the top of the date window with a white gap at the bottom. Am I nitpicking here or is something amiss? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brightlight 0 Posted August 17, 2010 I just received my Asian copy 2836 noobmariner from TS and the rotor sounds like a nickle rattling around, scraping and slapping loudly . Granted this is my first rep purchase and I know automatics make some noise when you move your wrist but it seems excessive to me. I would have noticed this on friends gens. Is this normal for a rep? Also, my datewheel doesn't always "grab" when rotating the crown, and sometimes skips a rotation. Also, the date text nearly touches the top of the date window with a white gap at the bottom. Am I nitpicking here or is something amiss? No you're not nitpicking and it's not normal, I guess your rotor is loose for a start. This can happen in transit I suppose but it probably was never tighitened properly in the first place, ETA clones are not the best put together movements I've ever seen! I would guess also that the datewheel overlay is loose or not properly fixed and rubbing on the back of the dial which would account for both the skip and the misalignment. Neither of these is likely to be serious. You have to decide whether to send it back or have it fixed yourself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baldrick 1 Posted August 17, 2010 It's not a Noobmariner ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
puckskraper 0 Posted August 17, 2010 Frack! Well, I've already sized the bracelet and removed all the plastic. Do you think Mark will have an issue with me exchanging this for and upgrading to an ETA 2836? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KBH 7 Posted August 17, 2010 He will probably want to just repair it and send it back to you. Where are you located? I'd send it to Brightlight if you're in EU. It probably wouldn't cost much more than shipping it back to China and waiting for a replacement and it sounds like an easy fix. It would definitely be cheaper than upgrading to Swiss. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
puckskraper 0 Posted August 17, 2010 Where are you located? I'd send it to Brightlight if you're in EU. It probably wouldn't cost much more than shipping it back to China and waiting for a replacement and it sounds like an easy fix. It would definitely be cheaper than upgrading to Swiss. I'm in Northern California. By easy fix, is it something I could do without specialized tools if I removed the case back? How about the datewheel issue? Should I head over to the repair section and give it a go? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brightlight 0 Posted August 17, 2010 Where are you located? I'd send it to Brightlight if you're in EU. It probably wouldn't cost much more than shipping it back to China and waiting for a replacement and it sounds like an easy fix. It would definitely be cheaper than upgrading to Swiss. I'm in Northern California. By easy fix, is it something I could do without specialized tools if I removed the case back? How about the datewheel issue? Should I head over to the repair section and give it a go? Phew, that's a difficult if not impossible one to answer! The rotor should be an easy job just requiring the back to be taken off and the screw tightened. The datewheel is a different matter as the movement has to be removed and the hands and dial taken off the movement to get at the date mechanism. Depends on your level of mechanical ability, having the right tools, etc, etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
puckskraper 0 Posted August 17, 2010 I understand Brightlight, thank you. I think I'll contact Mark @ TS and see what a return for repair will run. Worst case, I'll use a rubber ball or duct tape to get the caseback off and tighten the rotor myself. While this hasn't been a terrible first experience with reps I don't know that I'll rush to get another. Probably for the best as my wallet would say. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KBH 7 Posted August 17, 2010 This is just an idea so BL feel free to jump in as to whether or not you think it's feasible. Since DW clearance to the dial is pretty critical you might be able to remove the movement and just loosen the 2 screws that hold the dial in place and just try to raise the dial a hair without taking the hands and dial off. Then re-tighten the screws and check to see whether or not you have enough clearance for the DW to snap over without hanging up. Then, when replacing the movement in the case, if you can get the 2 movement tabs back in place without over tightening them too much so as not to force the movement back up against the dial, you might be able to get the problem solved. When doing this, the only risky part is removing and replacing the stem. Just a possibility that may (or may not) solve the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brightlight 0 Posted August 17, 2010 This is just an idea so BL feel free to jump in as to whether or not you think it's feasible. Since DW clearance to the dial is pretty critical you might be able to remove the movement and just loosen the 2 screws that hold the dial in place and just try to raise the dial a hair without taking the hands and dial off. Then re-tighten the screws and check to see whether or not you have enough clearance for the DW to snap over without hanging up. Then, when replacing the movement in the case, if you can get the 2 movement tabs back in place without over tightening them too much so as not to force the movement back up against the dial, you might be able to get the problem solved. When doing this, the only risky part is removing and replacing the stem. Just a possibility that may (or may not) solve the problem. Certainly worth a try KBH, it's possibly that the layer of glue holding on the datewheel overlay is a bit thick. Make sure when removing the stem you do it in the time setting position (crown fully out) and use a 1.2mm screwdriver to depress the little button that connects to the lever which holds the stem in place. The 2836 clones seem very particular about removing from the time set position. Using a screwdriver too small can cause the lever to stick and you will then need to disassemble the keyless works to fix. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RolexAddict 1 Posted August 17, 2010 I experienced a lot of troubles on eta and Chinese movements when pulling out the stem with the crown at the time setting position. I prefer now pull the stem out with the crown unscrewed and being at the winding position, as recommanded by professionals I don't know why its better, cannot explain. I have read something from the Ziggmeister about this, but cannot find again the post Curiously, ist quite impossible to pull out the stem from an A7750 at the winding position. Must be done at the time setting position. Cannot explain why. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KBH 7 Posted August 17, 2010 Here's a post from Ziggy on RWGforum: "Posted 01 May 2006 - 05:22 PM I only put one model in the time setting position for removing the stem - that is on the Moljina russian movement, all other watches I remove the stem in the winding position, and have never ever had any problems... And yes, I always push on the release when installing the stem... RG " If you do a search over there on stem removal, you'll find this is the general consensus. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
