Lubricants oil/greses

[GenTLe 1,511]

Dear All,

I'm going to start "playing" deeply with movements. I read here and there, I have a good starting book (http://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1626549982/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and I already downloaded and studied the ETA tech docs for 2836-2 / 2824-2 and 7750/7753.

My lubricants by now are:

M. 9210 (fine oil)

M. HP-1300 (grease for slow parts)

M. 9501 (cannon pinion)

M. 9415 (pallet jewels for 28.8kBPH)

 

Plus I've 8ml of M. 8000 that came with a toolkit and I'm not sure if I'll use them...

 

My questions is about the barrel walls and main spring greases... If I got it right (?) on automatic watches (I'm speaking mainly of 2836-2 / 2824-2 and 7750/7753, ETA or Asian clones) I should use something like the Klüber P125, which is a molybdenum disulphide based grease.

 

Now... This P125 is crazy expensive (well, not that the others aren't... I've the strong suspect that equally thickness fresh synt motor oil will serve in the same way... But ok, let's go on with this stuff). At home I've 1kg of black molybdenum disulphide grease that has apparently the same consistency of this Klüber one... Should I give it a try?

And what about the main spring? I can bet it should be lubricated differently...

 

Thanks, GenTLe

[10:10 Watch Repair 1]

Dear All,

I'm going to start "playing" deeply with movements. I read here and there, I have a good starting book (http://www.amazon.it...1?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and I already downloaded and studied the ETA tech docs for 2836-2 / 2824-2 and 7750/7753.

My lubricants by now are:

M. 9210 (fine oil)

M. HP-1300 (grease for slow parts)

M. 9501 (cannon pinion)

M. 9415 (pallet jewels for 28.8kBPH)

 

Plus I've 8ml of M. 8000 that came with a toolkit and I'm not sure if I'll use them...

 

My questions is about the barrel walls and main spring greases... If I got it right (?) on automatic watches (I'm speaking mainly of 2836-2 / 2824-2 and 7750/7753, ETA or Asian clones) I should use something like the Klüber P125, which is a molybdenum disulphide based grease.

 

Now... This P125 is crazy expensive (well, not that the others aren't... I've the strong suspect that equally thickness fresh synt motor oil will serve in the same way... But ok, let's go on with this stuff). At home I've 1kg of black molybdenum disulphide grease that has apparently the same consistency of this Klüber one... Should I give it a try?

And what about the main spring? I can bet it should be lubricated differently...

 

Thanks, GenTLe

Typical oil for a mainspring is D5. Some replacement mainsprings come lubricated from the factory though.

Moebius 82xx (there are several versions) for the barrel wall. Don't get too caught up in specific oils, there are many that do the same thing.

Usually a starting point is D5, 9010, 941, 8213 and Molycote DX

[binatang 0]

You've gotten almost everything but I do think 9010 is a must in most rep movements.

I was also told recently that D5 can used in lubricating the mainspring. I tried & it works fine.

So you can probably substitute HP1300 for this application as it's superior replacement for D5.

 

Kluber P125 is a braking grease for the 7750 & is used only on the wall of the mainspring barrel. Usually at 2 spots.

Braking grease prevents friction wear but is not too slippery.

If normal grease is used the mainspring will slip too early reducing the watch's power reserve.

Moebius 8217 is a cheaper alternative you can consider.

 

You don't see much literature on mainspring oiling from ETA anymore.

They recommend techs to install a new complete barrel assembly during each service interval.

 

 

 

 

[GenTLe 1,511]

Thanks guys!

Actually... What do you use to remove and refit the spring in the barrel? I've seen the tool prices and... :help3: Do you think it is important, on our rep, to disassemble clean, lube and reassemble the barrels? I'm really scared to make disasters, even if I've a guinea pig a2936 GMT, I'd like to avoid killing it...

 

Ah, and how do you remind which screw was fitting in the specific holes? Taking pictures or putting them in a specific order (but then how to wash them without mixing all?)

Edited August 7, 2014 by GenTLe

[binatang 0]

You are referring to mainspring winder. That would be an expensive & unnecessary bit of kit if you are hobbyist repairing reps imo.

Brand new mainsprings for 28XX, 6497 & 7750 cost no more than US$10 from Clark.

They come with a retaining disc that does away with a need for a winder. More on this later.

The cost of main spring winder & the various sized heads you would need will buy a lot of new mainsprings!

A winder is pointless purchase unless you do a lot of vintage pieces with hard to find mainsprings replacements.

 

Video servicing a 6497.

Min 12.50 - Shows the procedure to remove the mainspring. Its done by hand.

Min 17.40 - The old mainspring is re-used & the tech monkey oils the entire mainspring & reinstalls it with a winder.

You can also try installing it by hand but that is really a PITA.

The one issue I have with this video is the incredibly heavy-handedness of the oiling. I would have used only half of what was shown.

 

Video servicing a Rolex with a broken mainspring.

Min 0.10 - Shows the new mainspring in its retaining disc, how it is installed & oiled.

You will understand why you don't need a winder when installing a new mainspring

Edited August 8, 2014 by binatang

[GenTLe 1,511]

Great Bina! Thanks a lot

[GenTLe 1,511]

Uhm, by the way, you correctly said to change it fully if it's broken.

But what to do with a fresh new (and dry) REP? I'd rather lube it, not change it...

[J!m 289]

I think you could pop the barrel cap and put a few lines on top of the coiled spring (assuming it is CLEAN as well as dry) and be fine with that.